Randall Grahm. Bonny Doon. Popelouchum. (2 October 2018)

Randall Grahm. Bonny Doon. Popelouchum.

October 2, 2018

Randall Grahm. It took nearly 40 years, but it finally happened, and I'm only sorry it took so long to meet the man who made Bonny Doon Vineyard; an original - if accidental - "Rhone Ranger"; master of puns; pioneer of wine ingredient labeling; possessor of a restless, tirelessly creative mind. I was thrilled to have the opportunity (thank you Patrick McKee and Kysela Père et Fils), if a little intimidated by the idea of meeting this guy. Shouldn't have worried. Mr. Grahm - he is two years older than I - was warm, charming, funny, and full of knowledge, both technical and philosophical. 

The "accidental" part was that Randall started with the intention of making great Pinot Noir. He had the good sense to realize quickly that grape varieties often found in France's Rhone Valley might prove to be a better fit in California's Mediterranean climate. While Grenache has long been planted in California - it is still one of the most widely planted grapes in the state - other "Rhone" varietals such as Syrah, Roussanne and Viognier were virtually non-existent when Bonny Down got started in 1983. Mourvedre, interestingly, has had a home in Contra Costa County since the late 1800s, where it has long been known as Mataro. 

Grahm's wildly creative, pun-filled writing can be found on the back label of his wines. There was a point, when many of his labels were designed by Ralph Steadman, that the inherent quality of the wines might have been overshadowed by the art, both written and visual, on the outside, but the wines have been consistently good. Over the years Randall shed some projects - sadly, there is no more "Heart of Darkness" Madiran from France or any other imported wine under the Bonny Doon mark - sometimes profitably. His sales of Big House and Pacific Rim, two of his most successful labels, probably helped fund his latest, most audacious venture: Popelouchum. 

For now, however, our focus is on what is currently available from Bonny Doon. Randall poured nine wines for us, starting with two in cans: La Bulle Moose de Cigar Rosé - a carbonated version of his wildly successful Vin Gris de Cigar and La Bulle Moose Rousse Fizzy Red of the Earth - 79% Grenache, 21% Syrah. Both of these are decidedly drier and more savory than anything else we've encountered in cans. Next in line were two whites.

Growing Picpoul in California is a heavy lift, since the grape is overwhelmingly known for the mostly inexpensive white wines it makes in Pinet (as in Picpoul de Pinet), France. Bonny Doon's version, retailing for about $21 (about $10 more than the average bottle of Picpoul de Pinet), is a fine bottle of white wine, with more salinity than any California-born white I've ever tasted. Randall's Le Cigare Blanc - 66% Grenache Blanc, 34% Roussanne - grapes from Bee's Wax Vineyard (named before Roussanne was planted there), is, despite its $30 price, a value, with fragrant (honey, and yes, bee's wax!), full-bodied but balanced flavors.

Bonny Doon's best seller is their Vin Gris de Cigare, a wine as close in style to good Provence Rosé as you're going to get in California. Keep a future eye out for Grahm's attempt at growing Tibouren at Popelouchum, as he hopes to emulate the great Provence estate of Clos Cibonne, one of the last Provence outposts where this indigenous grape is predominant.

Imagine a Grenache-dominant wine that possesses grace, even elegance, an sort of Burgundian sense of intensity without weight - then taste a bottle of Clos de Gilroy (88% Grenache, 12% Syrah). Making fairly light yet complete Grenache must be difficult, based on my experience - Bonny Doon has nailed it.

Two more reds. First Old Telegram (a nice nod to Domaine Vieux Telegraphe, but not a nod specifically to Chateauneuf du Pape) - 100% old vine Mourvedre from Contra Costa County. Randall leaves harvested whole bunches out to dry for three days before dropping the whole mess into the fermenter. You get a sense of dried fruit without the heaviness of wine made from completely raisined grapes. This is dark and intense, but also sort of brisk and edgy, 100% delicious. Le Cigare Volant is Randall's homage to Chateauneuf du Pape, with a blend - 39% Mourvedre, 33% Grenache, 26% Syrah, 2% Cinsault - fairly typical of the region (specifically, Chateau de Beaucastel comes to mind, especially considering the high dose of Mourvedre). Again, Bonny Doon nails it.

We finished with dessert - Viognier Vin de Glacière. Made from grapes frozen in an ice box instead of on the vine, which makes this eminently affordable, as opposed to Ice Wine (Eiswein). This reminds me of an October morning in Ampuis, the town at the base of the Condrieu hill. On the way to an appointment with Marcel Guigal, we stopped in a little bar to have a glass of Viognier must (grape juice just beginning to ferment). Best fruit juice I've ever tasted. My only note about this wine: What's not to love?

What is Popelouchum? A vineyard on hallowed ground in San Luis Batista (San Benito County), planted with many obscure, under appreciated grape varieties, at least here at the start. The long term plan is to cross some of these species in order to discover new hybrids that will thrive in a significantly warmer climate. Popelouchum is partly Randall Grahm playing with long loved varieties from other lands, partly a search for a uniquely American grape through varietal crosses that haven't been attempted before, and finally, a realization that varietals we know and love now might not be viable in a warmer world. I can't help but think we're likely to have bigger worries than what grapes to plant when it gets too damned hot for the ones we have now, but I appreciate Randall's tireless brain and his great humor.