Wine Over Time (15 August 2018)

Wine Over Time

August 15, 2018

Chateau Lafleur, Pomerol 1979. Viader Red, Napa Valley 1993. Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2001. Opened at 39 years, 25 years and 17 years of age yesterday, these three provided a valuable illustration of the effects of age on wine. 

If we had been drinking this trio with a meal to match, we'd have gone youngest to oldest, starting with the Chateau Montelena 2001, but this time, with just a baguette and a few nibbles of cheese, we drank Chateau Lafleur first. This bottle survived multiple moves and less than ideal storage, but the cork pretty much disintegrated upon removal. Still identifiably Merlot (mostly), at first the tannins dominated the drying fruit. With air, however, even at 39 years of age, the fruit gained ground. Overall this bottle was fascinating, if past it's prime - it was probably better 10 years ago, but I would guess a well-stored 1979 Lafleur is still a fine bottle. 

Next up, Viader 1993. At 25 - the age at which fancy Bordeaux are re-corked - the Viader's cork was in perfect condition, as was the wine. Like 1979 in Bordeaux, 1993 in California was an average vintage - nothing exciting overall, but a source of value and pleasant surprise from the best winegrowers. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc, from hillside (Howell Mountain) vines, this was still dark and dense with fruit, but the tannins had mostly softened, replaced by that savory oxidative character shared by most red wines of a certain age. Still, this was clearly, unequivocally Viader - deep, dark, savory, balanced. Unlike the Lafleur, however, the first or second glass of Viader was better than the last. Its time is now.

Chateau Montelena 2001 is one of the finest vintages of many fine ones from this great property, and its 17 years barely registered. Still nearly opaque purple red, intensely, darkly fruity and with softening but still substantial tannins, this remarkable wine has a long life ahead of it. Having tasted it multiple times when it was first released, however, this baby has grown into a beautiful young adult. It doesn't always work out this perfectly, and another bottle of 2001 Chateau Montelena might not be as perfectly developed, but this one was the stuff of dreams.

Drinking older bottles is a game of chance. Less than ideal storage, the possibility of cork taint, simple bottle variation; all can play havoc with each bottle of wine. This day, all three wines showed very well for their age,  the Chateau Montelena dazzling us. Tasting - no, drinking - these fine bottles with a few good friends, well, that's what it's all about.