Foradori (26 October 2017)

Foradori

October 26, 2017

We had a visit today from Theo Zierock, son of Elizbetta Foradori. Tasting four different 2015s, all made from Teroldego, was a treat. Chatting with Theo was even better. He talked about the work his mother has done since the 1980s to identify and propagate the best clonal selections of Teroldego. Since establishing the integrity of their home vineyard, all subsequent vineyards have been propagated by massal selection, if not directly from seed. This rigorous approach has made Foradori's Teroldego the benchmark. Fact is, this is the only Teroldego we're likely to carry in our shop. Theo's brother Emilio has been winemaker since 2012. I believe they use more amphorae each vintage, and it shows in the wines, which seem to be more tender at a younger age, with no lack of structure. The '15s were deep and dark - not unusual for Teroldego - but also supple and generous, even the tightly structured Morei.

While many sommeliers and traditional retail merchants snark about this "new" "natural wine fad," it is important to note that as Foradori has become more and more "natural" its wines have become more and more delicious. Massal selection and growing from seed; biodynamic farming; vinification in amphorae; extended skin contact. These are extremely labor-intensive, detail-oriented processes. Natural winegrowing is not a fad for the Foradori family - it is a consciously chosen path carved out over the past nearly forty years and two generations.