Raventos i Blanc (14 March 2017)

Raventos i Blanc

March 14, 2018

Josep Samsó came calling, with four wines. He is assistant winemaker at Raventos i Blanc, in Conca del Riu Anoia, Spain. While a Raventos has grown grapes on the same land in Conca del Riu Anoia since 1497, Raventos i Blanc is just over thirty years old. Before its founding in 1986, the family sold its grapes to other wineries. Josep Maria Raventos i Blanc, created the winery with the goal of making sparkling wine that would be considered among the world's finest. Josep Maria, while working at Codorniu, the winery his family co-founded (and where he spent forty years, during the most significant growth of the winery as well as Cava itself), not only spent some of that time as mayor of Sant Sadurni d'Anoia; he was one of the creators and promoters of the Cava DO. One of Josep Maria's predecessors had a part in creating the first Cava, in 1872. Just a couple of weeks after opening the Raventos i Blanc winery, Josep Maria died, leaving his dream project in the hands of his son Manuel.

Manuel's son Pepe joined Raventos i Blanc in 2001. With twenty generations of Raventos winegrowers preceding him, Pepe made some momentous changes, capped by his decision to withdraw from the Cava DO in 2012. His controversial decision (many of his neighbors consider him a traitor) came from his sense that the name "Cava" implies, if not low quality, at least low cost. With a commitment to quality over quantity he wanted to separate Raventos i Blanc from the pack. In establishing the rules for a new DO - Conca del Riu Anoia - Pepe made it one of the most stringently demanding place-names in the world of wine. More stringent, even, than Champagne. Conca del Riu Anoia winegrowers must be certified organic or biodynamic. Vines must be at least ten years of age. Yields are significantly lower than in Cava, while minimum aging on the lees is 18 months, twice as long as Cava. Only indigenous varietals are permitted - no Pinot Noir or Chardonnay in a Conca del Riu Anoia wine. With the weight of twenty generations of family, mingled with the history of Cava and the self-imposed burden of a strict new DO, Raventos i Blanc has created high expectations. After tasting four current releases, I can happily report that those expectations have been met, and exceeded.

Blanc de Blanc Reserva Brut 2015 - Formerly labeled Blanc de Blanc "l'Hereu," I've tasted (and sold) the past three vintages, and each subsequent vintage has been an improvement on what has always been a very good introduction to Raventos i Blanc. As in every wine made here, Xarel-lo (covering 50% of the Raventos vineyard acreage) is the predominant player in the blend, with Macabeu second and Parellada third. The 2015 seems to be the driest Blanc de Blanc yet, even more refined and elegant. It is immediately clear from tasting this "entry-level" Raventos wine, that we are on a much higher level of quality than the good, inexpensive Cava we sell so much of.

"de Nit" Rosé Brut 2015 - 40% Xarel-lo, 36% Macabeu, 18% Parellada and 6% Monastrell; 4g/L dosage; paler than previous vintages, drier, and again, more elegant. We sell this wine for $26/bottle - we would have to spend twice that to find a better rosé from Champagne.

Textures de Pedra 2012 - 30% Xarel-lo, 25% Xarel-lo Vermell, 25% Sumoll, 15% Bastard Negre, 5% Parellada. Xarel-lo Vermell, Sumoll and Bastard Negre are all indigenous red varietals. Until DNA evidence proved otherwise, Bastard Negre was thought to be Monastrell. 42 months on the lees, no dosage - at just under $50 it must compete with Champagne. It does. Comfortably. Sea shells, saline, lees - mouthwatering.

Mas del Serral 2007 - Xarel-lo, Bastard Negre; 10 years on the lees, no dosage. Clos du Serral is a small parcel holding the oldest Xarel-lo vines on the estate (avg. 70 years). Words defy - this is exceptional; you might expect the lees to dominate after ten years of contact, but they don't. Instead, you get hauntingly beautiful, almost tender, fragrant fruit. Impossibly pretty, it is hard to get my head around the fact that it has zero sugar. At $180/bottle, you won't see this on our shelves, but we'd be happy to special order it for you. Yes, it can be poured proudly alongside the best Champagne has to offer.

Pepe Raventos has bet his family's reputation and standing in Sant Sadurni d'Anoia. Whether or not Conca del Riu Anoia establishes itself as a notable, successful DO remains to be seen. What is certain, however, is that Raventos i Blanc is making fantastic sparkling wine.