Tuesday, July 19, 2011

It was great to read Eric Asimov's article in last Wednesday's New York Times (13 July 2011) about the Aube, Champagne's most southern sub-region. A photo of Cedric Bouchard gracing the front page of the dining out section is great news for this under-appreciated region. It was also great to get some tips on other producers in the Aube.

Having carried Champagne from Aube producers for several years, I should add a house that Asimov did not mention in his article: Moutard, in Buxeuil. Francois Moutard makes terrific wine from both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as grapes such as Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier and the rarest of all, Arbanne. His cuve "six cepages" contains all six varietals (add Pinot Meunier to the other five heretofore mentioned) - it is delicious as well as instructive. His Arbanne cuve is unique, and worth searching out since it is the only 100% Arbanne wine I've ever seen. All in all, though the basic Brut Reserve, 100% Pinot Noir, is the workhorse - both delicious and a remarkable value.

Another Champagne note: After a visit from one of Alain Sacy's children, I am happy to report that while the Louis de Sacy label bears the "NM" - indicating it is a negociant-manipulant - 100% of their fruit comes from vineyards owned either by Alain or his brother, who "sell" the fruit to the corporation called Louis de Sacy, which they own. Cool, a 20,000 case (annually) estate-bottler!


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