Chesapeake Wine Company Blog

Boo Hoo?

2011-08-05T11:57:00.000-07:00

Kermit Lynch still contributes occasionally to his own newsletter (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant) and I still prefer his entries to those of his staff. His descriptions are pared down to essentials, but they are poetic and evocative. I'd like to write as well someday. Having expressed my admiration and appreciation, it is time to offer some friendly criticism.

I just read Kermit's piece in the August 2011 KLWM newsletter that arrived by mail today. It is titled "On Vacation," and it is essentially a plea for pity - an expression of frustration about how the relative difficulty of his job is perceived. While acknowledging the fact that wine merchants do indeed work hard - long hours; in Kermit's case, many days on the road; in my case, lots of stock work (I'm betting Kermit hasn't done much stock work in years) - to expect pity from consumers is a bit silly - but to expect pity from winegrowers? Farmers? Hah! Farming is one of the toughest jobs I could ever imagine - long hours, back-breaking labor, constantly at the mercy of the weather - I'll take working in a wine shop any day. Tasting through mediocre or bad wine brought by lousy sales reps is no fun, for sure, but I'd rather do that than pick suckers off a few thousand vines (per acre!).

C'mon Kermit, you know as well as I that our jobs are more about pleasure than anything else. We work pretty hard to put smiles on peoples' faces, but as jobs go, there are plenty that are way more difficult. Relax - appreciate the fact that many people would love to do what you do to make a living. And enjoy the fact that you have done your job extraordinarily well.

2011-07-19T12:40:00.000-07:00

It was great to read Eric Asimov's article in last Wednesday's New York Times (13 July 2011) about the Aube, Champagne's most southern sub-region. A photo of Cedric Bouchard gracing the front page of the dining out section is great news for this under-appreciated region. It was also great to get some tips on other producers in the Aube.

Having carried Champagne from Aube producers for several years, I should add a house that Asimov did not mention in his article: Moutard, in Buxeuil. Francois Moutard makes terrific wine from both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as grapes such as Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier and the rarest of all, Arbanne. His cuve "six cepages" contains all six varietals (add Pinot Meunier to the other five heretofore mentioned) - it is delicious as well as instructive. His Arbanne cuve is unique, and worth searching out since it is the only 100% Arbanne wine I've ever seen. All in all, though the basic Brut Reserve, 100% Pinot Noir, is the workhorse - both delicious and a remarkable value.

Another Champagne note: After a visit from one of Alain Sacy's children, I am happy to report that while the Louis de Sacy label bears the "NM" - indicating it is a negociant-manipulant - 100% of their fruit comes from vineyards owned either by Alain or his brother, who "sell" the fruit to the corporation called Louis de Sacy, which they own. Cool, a 20,000 case (annually) estate-bottler!

Old World to New World, and Back?

2011-07-12T12:46:00.001-07:00

It could be argued that Syrah and Malbec have done better for themselves in the New World than they ever did in the Old World.

Syrah at its most famous - for wine geeks, that is - is grown in France's northernn Rhone, most notably in Hermitage and Cote-Rotie. But it wasn't until the past 20 years or so that Syrah was grown in quantity in the southern Rhone (and Languedoc-Roussillon), where the bulk of the Rhone Valley's wine is produced and exported. When cuttings were shipped off to Australia in the mid-19th century, the name changed to Shiraz, and the grape, whatever you want to call it, flourished. Far more Shiraz is grown in Australia than has ever been grown in France. Shiraz replaced Merlot as the most requested red wine grape in the USA (how long has it been, 10 years?), but fads only last so long here, and Australia ran into trouble by subsidizing exports of cheap wine - not the best strategy for a place so far away.

Malbec started off in Bordeaux but was pretty much pushed out by the Cabernets (Sauvignon and Franc) and Merlot. It moved southwest, to Cahors, where it is still grown with some success, but Merlot followed it there, and most recent efforts include some Merlot in the blend. Where Malbec has taken off, however, is in the New World, specifically Argentina. In Baltimore, and I suspect most of the USA, Malbec is now the most requested red wine in retail shops.

The Argentine version of the Malbec is, like the Aussie version of Syrah, plush and fat, often jammy. The French, like the rest of the Old World winegrowers, were late to the varietal marketing game, and most of their efforts have been, well, less than successful. France isn't so good at plush and fat - thank goodness, and no offense to the New World because the fun is in the differences and it would be so boring if wine tasted the same no matter where it came from! - no, France is good at dry, balanced and, well, earthy. So, how can France get back into the action? I've tasted a couple of wines in the past year or so that might contain the answer.

The first was a Malbec from Cahors, made by Georges Vigouroux, called Gouleyant. It's got all of that nomenclature on the front label - Malbec prominently enough, though not in a smaller font than Cahors. More important, it's big and rich for Cahors, which seems to appeal to my New World wine customers, while still balanced and earthy and somehow French, which works for my Old World wine customers. It is the number one selling Malbec in the store. The second is a Syrah from the Languedoc, made by Domaine Croix Belle. I resisted purchasing this last year only because interest in Shiraz had declined so precipitously it didn't seem worth the effort to sell a French version. Tasting the '09 yesterday, however, the wine is too good, regardless of grape variety, to ignore. It also succeeds in much the same way the Vigouroux Malbec does - big and rich for France, but still structured and balanced enough to be recognizable as French.

Could this be part of the solution to France's declining wine export woes? For small wine merchants like me, yes (though we still sell plenty of traditional French appellations). For the market at large? Global warming seems to be making it possible for France to make good New World style wine, and they've got lots of vineyards. Stay tuned.

Selling Wine Without Points

2011-07-08T13:29:00.000-07:00

This is an old rant of mine, but every once in a while something happens here at CWC that reminds me why I haven't read a Wine Spectator in about ten years. Two couples come in to do a Tuesday Tasting. I started them off with a Prosecco (Gasparini - Asolo, Italy). They enjoyed it; even the one guy who professed not to like bubbles grudgingly admitted liking it. One of the guests then asked me if the Wine Spectator had liked the Gasparini. I responded that I had no idea, that in fact, I hadn't peeked at a Wine Spectator in years. She seemed surprised, even a bit taken back. I then explained that if I waited for the Wine Spectator to mention a particular wine, even a particular wine region, I would end up being like most other wine shops - a follower instead of a leader. I went on... probably went a bit overboard, but she started it!

I explained that I was one of the first stores in Maryland to carry a Prosecco, certainly the first wine bar in Maryland to pour Prosecco by the glass, when we opened in 1998. In fact, we were pouring Prosecco years before any restaurant in Little Italy thought about doing such a thing. Leaders start trends, followers reap the benefits - more press attention, more product availability. The reason there are dozens of Proseccos available in Maryland today (there were two brands in Maryland when we opened) is that the market leaders expressed interest, and suppliers responded to our interest.

Is Prosecco the sole example? No - here's a short list of other trends (grape, style, region, method) that we have helped lead the way on (listed roughly from oldest to newest, dates are approximate):

Shiraz (virtually non-existent in the USA just 30 years ago) - about 1980
Spain (specifically Ribera del Duero, Albarino, Priorat/Montsant/Terra Alta) - 1987
Prosecco (fits in about here - I worked for the first Maryland importer/distributor of Prosecco) - about 1990
Viognier - 1993
Malbec - 1995
Torrontes - 1995
Gruner Veltliner - 1996
Estate-bottled Champagne - 1998
Cremant (de Jura, de Bourgogne, de Loire) - 2000
Organic/Biodynamic winegrowers - 2000
Rose (as in dry pink wine, still and sparkling) - 2000

Of course, I'm not alone; there are a handful of us in each market. And I didn't invent any of these things - this is wine, after all, and it's been around for ages, so there isn't a whole lot that is actually "new." A trend usually gets started with one wine - for some reason, it makes a strong impression, we start searching for similar experiences - next thing you know, customers catch on, ask for more, go to other stores and restaurants searching, distributors catch on, then, perhaps, a few years later, the Wine Spectator.

What Wine Geeks Drink on July 4th

2011-07-05T08:45:00.000-07:00

First, many thanks to the salesman who left a message on my voicemail. He wanted to sell me a blog-writing service, based on his observation that while my entries were interesting, they didn't occur regularly enough. To that end I will attempt to make a daily blog entry.

I am often asked by customers walking into Chesapeake Wine Company the first time, if we carry other alcoholic beverages besides wine. Unfortunately I am prone to giving a smart-ass response like "If you walk into a store named Blah-Blah Discount Liquors, do you ask if they carry other alcoholic beverages besides booze?" I've gotten better, though - usually I take the time to point out our small but high quality selection of spirits and beer.

Fact is, I'd be bored just drinking wine. I couldn't have imagined spending July 4th drinking only wine. Sure, I drank some great bubbles at the store - we were open 'til 5pm, and I generally encourage the staff to have some fun on days like the 4th - it was mostly Paul Bara Champagne Brut Rose. But once we made it to our July 4th festivities, I mixed it up; a couple of Coronas, a margarita, then a few glasses of a terrific dry pink Loire Valley Pinot Noir made by Eric Chevalier (like the Bara, a Kermit Lynch selection). By the way, there is no truth to the conventional wisdom that mixing alcoholic beverages causes hangovers. Over drinking causes hangovers, period.

Hail Storm Destroys 2011 Pinot Blanc Crop

2011-06-01T08:05:00.000-07:00

I traded emails on Memorial Day with Paul Roberts, owner/winemaker - with his wife Nadine Grabania - of Deep Creek Cellars in far western Maryland. This was his first message that day:

On your next swallow of DC Pinot Blanc, savor it, ’cause their won't be any in 2011! Freaking hail storm last Thursday night. I couldn't get over there till yesterday. The PB was destroyed. The other varieties fared better, with the average lost being about 50 percent, it seems. One especially upright-growing clone of Pinot Noir clearly handled the quarter-size hail stones much better. Don't know if you've ever seen a vineyard after such a calamity; most of the shoots had reached the top wire, but everything was mowed back down to the fruiting wires, with serious injuries in the canopy to the shoots that did survive.

Last year, there was a near total wipe-out from the latest May freeze on record. This year, not quite not a complete loss but I'll have to find alternative sources again.

One local who is 87 said he never remembers hail of any significance on that ridge. Climate change-related? Who knows. Seems likely, just as it seems likely that if there are three EF-5 American tornadoes in one year, and only four, total, previously on record, that the changing climate is a factor.

Talking to the Huttons yesterday brought to mind war refugees. And that's the worst part: I put the chances at 50-50 that they'll continue next year, after two years in a row of such heavy losses in time, money, and hope.

Paul

2011 would have been the fourth leaf for this vineyard. The 2010 Pinot Blanc, from third leaf fruit, is remarkable, but of course there isn't much of it. This isn't the first vineyard parcel in the world to be battered by hail - it happens yearly in Burgundy - but it should serve as a reminder that when we drink a good wine we are drinking a product of farming. A product of back-breaking work and attention to thousands of details. Think about it the next time you raise a glass of wine to your lips.

2011-02-03T13:08:00.001-08:00

this is a test: CWC wine of the week preview: it's red, it's a blend, and it's from the Languedoc, specifically the Terraces de Lauzac...

What we drank for Thanksgiving

2010-11-26T09:16:00.000-08:00

Picking wine for Thanksgiving is easy for me to do for everyone else, but I do understand the anxiety of wanting to please everyone at the table. I brought home some Moulin-a-Vent from Thibault, a Pinot Noir from Littorai, and lots of bubbles - Egly-Ouriet Champagne, Schramsberg Brut Rosé, a Bugey-Cerdon, and this pink, bubbly Lambrusco di Sorbara. We never opened the Thibault - we’ve been drinking a lot of it lately...and if you can believe it, we also skipped the Egly-Ouriet for the same reason! We drank the Schrambsberg before sitting down; then we opened this Lambrusco and the Littorai Pinot Noir at the table. The Bugey-Cerdon was consumed with pumpkin pie, but when I woke up this morning, we had a couple of empty bottles of Vecchia Modena Lambrusco, and a nearly full bottle of Littorai Pinot Noir.

http://myemail.constantcontact.com/News-from-Chesapeake-Wine-Company.html?soid=1100502231119&aid=9qASW-DpOIQ

2010-11-12T10:13:00.000-08:00

http://myemail.constantcontact.com/News-from-Chesapeake-Wine-Company.html?soid=1100502231119&aid=9qASW-DpOIQ

Rum at Joe Squared

2010-10-28T14:00:00.000-07:00

We went for the risotto and pizza (which happens to be square), and left, five or six shots of rum (and a few beers) later, full and happy - and buzzed. Joe Squared has a fine selection of beer on tap and by the bottle, but their main beverage attraction is the extensive collection of rum. Okan is the man behind the bar to ask for help navigating the list, as he clearly loves the stuff. If you ask for his favorite white and dark rum, you will be presented with the following:

Light: Oronoco (Brazil) Platinum Reserve - not to be confused with even the finest Cachaca you've ever tasted, this was indescribably smooth and silky, like creme brulee flavored with a bit of coffee.

Dark: Ron Zacapa (Guatemala) Centenario 23 year old - Cane molasses and caramel; rich, but so delicate and smooth, and so long-lasting on the palate! When I went to order some of both of these for the store I discovered that Ron Zacapa makes an XO that would cost about twice as much as this - some day we'll have to give that one a try, but in the meantime, this is the best dark rum I've ever tasted under a hundred bucks a bottle.

The risotto - two different preps - and the pizza (bacon and clam) were all terrific, too. And the djs that started up around 10pm were just getting warmed up when we left (ok, stumbled) at about 11:30pm. Joe Squared, North Avenue just east of Howard - great place. Ask if Okan is working!

'News from Chesapeake Wine Company'

2010-06-29T10:52:00.000-07:00

'News from Chesapeake Wine Company'

2010-06-11T13:15:00.000-07:00

'News from Chesapeake Wine Company'

Crumbling Rock vs. The World

2010-01-25T19:05:00.000-08:00

The folks at Black Ankle Vineyards (Mt. Airy, Maryland) invited me to a blind tasting on Sunday. The theme was "Crumbling Rock '07 vs, The World" - at which they pitted their Bordeaux blend against similarly priced Bordeaux blends from France, California and South Africa. It is the third such event they have staged and it speaks volumes about their goals and aspirations. Oh, by the way, their Crumbling Rock '07? It won, with 18 out of 30 first place votes (runner-up wine received 8 first place votes)!

The wines, in order of group preference (approximate retail price):

Black Ankle Vineyards '07 Crumbling Rock - Mt. Airy, Maryland ($45)
Girard '06 Artistry - Sonoma County, California ($45)
Bennett Lane Winery '05 Maximus - Calistoga, California ($45)
Cain '05 Concept "The Benchland" - St. Helena (Napa Valley), California ($55)
Sur Luchtel '06 Mosaique - Napa Valley, California ($38)
Chamberley '07 Philosophers' Stone - South Africa ($28)
Chateau Clerc Milon '06 - Pauillac (Haut-Medoc), France ($48)
Chateau Fonbadet '05 - Pauillac (Haut-Medoc), France ($45)

A few observations. Ed and Sarah (Boyce and O'Herron, partners in Black Ankle and marriage) do these tastings to learn as much as to show off what they've accomplished. While '07 Crumbling Rock is only the second vintage ever produced at Black Ankle, they have been at this thing for eight years, having spent the first six toiling in the vineyards just to produce their first crop. Their goal was to produce world class wine at Black Ankle, but it wasn't until their first tiny harvest in '05 that they had any proof that their hard work might amount to something. It's not like they had many serious benchmarks they could measure success against that were actually grown and produced in Maryland. If locals find that statement harsh, well, sorry, but it's essentially true. And it's not like they're doing anything radical compared to other great estates around the world. Black Ankle would look familiar to any well-traveled wine professional. They simply started with a different viewpoint, and asked a different set of questions of a different group of experts than anyone else in Maryland had started with.

So, with just two vintages under their belts, Ed and Sarah wanted to find out how they would stack up against the best wines from around the world that they could find in local wine shops. I would expect, knowing that they're always drinking wine from other places, always curious about what's going on out there in the big wine world, that they had an inkling they'd do ok in a comparative tasting with their peers. Still, to stick their necks out in public, wow, I am amazed at their courage - or is it audacity? I mean, sure, I believe they do these tastings to learn and to grow, but it would be nice to have their wine, their baby, show well. Their first such tasting, pitting the '06 Crumbling Rock vs. the world, netted them 3rd place - they were happy with that (last place would've sucked for sure) and they learned a lot. The second event matched their '07 Leaf Stone Syrah against some heavy-hitting Syrahs/Shiraz - Leaf Stone took 1st place! And they netted another first yesterday. Bravo! Three Cheers!

Now, let's step back a second and put this achievement in perspective. By great wine estate standards, Black Ankle is a newborn. When I was tasting yesterday I noted that '07 Crumbling Rock - which I failed to identify - certainly did not exhibit any characteristic that would mark it as "Maryland" wine. On the other hand, I didn't actually guess that it came from anywhere. For me, terroir, that sense of place in wine, is a wonderful thing. Crumbling Rock doesn't show it because it can't yet - the vines haven't been in the ground long enough to develop roots in the parent rock which will draw in components that will eventually give the wine a sense of being from a particular place.

Ed also made a critical point in his comments - '07 is a bit of a freakish vintage in Maryland, with virtually perfect weather conditions throughout the growing season. He likened it to 2005 in Bordeaux (I would add Burgundy here as well) - a great growing season, if not typical. The result of that perfect weather of course, is lots of ripeness - grapes with a particularly high percentage of sugar - which makes for wine with high alcohol content. While '07 Crumbling Rock shows no heat - in other words the alcohol is not out of balance with the terrific fruit - it is a "big" wine, and not necessarily what Ed and Sarah want to make on a consistent basis. This is wonderful news to me. It reminds me of the first time I tasted Black Ankle's '08 whites; it was at their tasting room, with Sarah. '08, in contrast to '07, was difficult to say the least - extremely rainy and overcast, it was tough to imagine getting even a marginally ripe crop. Tasting through the white wines, however, erased any worries. The wines ranged from 11.5 to 12.5% alcohol for varietals (Albarino, Viognier, Gruner Veltliner, Chardonnay) routinely found carrying 13-15% alcohol; yet they were bursting with varietal character and freshness and persistence - all the attributes of complete, brilliantly made wines. Nothing was lacking.

I left the winery that day wondering how in the world they could have learned so much, so fast. Next week I hope to get a glimpse of Black Ankle's 2009s. Can't wait.

Two Faces of Wine

2010-01-22T08:38:00.000-08:00

One of my wine class "students" sent me the link to a fascinating article titled "French Wines Learn New World Marketing and Branding." It seems to suggest that the French concept of labeling wine according to "terroir" is facing imminent extinction. Yes, it is true that the French have been slow to adopt the use of cute animal labels, and that their wine exports have suffered accordingly. It is also worth noting that per-capita wine consumption in France has declined by 50% in the past ten years or so, as their younger generation copies ours by consuming more Coca Cola and McDonald's fries - and gaining more weight (France also has the toughest drunk-driving laws in the world). Welcome to globalization - as we US Americans become more internationally sophisticated (sushi/crudo, tapas, wine bars) Europe the rest of the world becomes more American brand obsessed (Coca Cola, Pepsi, McDonald's).

As France learns to capture more of the supermarket wine business (animal labels, smooth, homogenized flavors) a few winegrowers in the New World learn about terroir. The technical wine/terroir wine dichotomy is nothing new, though the divide has widened as technology has developed. Wine is simply following the path of any other consumer product. France has long had bulk wine in their supermarkets and fine terroir-driven wine in their caviste wine shops. Maryland still doesn't allow wine to be sold in its supermarkets, but stores like CWC offer a clear alternative to stores like Beltway Fine Wine or Costco (oh, that's right, Costco and Sam's Club can't sell wine in Maryland either). You get the idea.

The current lousy economic situation notwithstanding, terroir wines have been around since the Romans (Falernum is a place, a terroir if you will) and they'll survive, even thrive, as more wine drinkers pop up in the most unexpected places around the world. China has barely started consuming wine but they're learning fast. And they're not drinking just the stuff with the cute animal labels - just ask Chateau Lafite where they're shipping most of their wine now.

Spain Redux

2010-01-21T09:04:00.000-08:00

I've got Spain on the brain. This week's Tuesday Tasting included the just-arrived Martinet Bru 2005, from Mas Martinet (owned by Jose Luis Perez and run by his daughter Sara). The first whiff of this wine took me back to April, walking through vineyards fragrant with wild thyme and crumbling slate crunching underfoot, listening to Sara explain her winegrowing philosophy.

Colin Gent, our guide, driver and drinking/eating buddy in Spain last April, visited CWC yesterday (Wednesday, the day after the Tuesday Tasting - and Todd Ruby was the driver this time). No mean trick, given that Colin lives in Bordeaux, France. I don't know many MWs (Master of Wine), but I'd be surprised if there was another as nice or unassuming as Colin. He brought some wonderful stuff to taste, too! Here's the list:

Nelin '08 - Priorat
Rene Barbier (Clos Mogador) continues to tinker with his white Priorat, adding a barrel of Pedro Ximenez and an ancient Catalan grape called Escanya Vella ("old strangler") to the '08 blend - extraordinary.

Oremus (Vega Sicilia's property in Hungary)
Furmint Dry '06 Mandolas - waxy/apricot/celery/mineral/lees/spice smells and penetrating, intensely concentrated flavors - barrel-fermented and aged for 6 months in Hungarian oak. The hint of celery reminded me of Gruner Veltliner.

Furmint Late Harvest '06 - fresh apricot/orange zest/custard smells and sweet though sappy, juicy, balanced flavors. Terrific.

La Rioja Alta
Vina Alberdi '03 Reserva - new label for this most traditional estate; perhaps that explains the sprightly feel of this release; 100% Tempranillo; spicy oak/red fruit; sappy and young.

Gran Reserva 904 '97 - the latest release, can you believe it? 12 years of aging between barrel and bottle before it leaves the bodega! Incredibly gamey and spicy, with a rich layer of oak, but not as much as you might expect given it spends about 6 years in barrel - profoundly complex and long. Wow.

Clos Figueras - Priorat
This bodega is owned by importer Christopher Canan, who represents many of the wine projects of the families of Jose Luis Lopez and Rene Barbier.
Serras del Priorat '08 - a new cuve of predominately (65%) young vine Garnacha blended with older vine Mazuela (Carignan) and Cabernet Sauvignon; brilliant, dark wild strawberry/slate/floral smells and peppery, sappy young flavors balanced by a mineral/gamey spine - delicious, and a great introduction to Priorat.

Font de la Figuera '07 - (Garnacha/Carignan/Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon) Almost jammy it's so young - sappy berry fruit over flowers, with some slate.

Mauro - Tudela de Duero
Mauro Tinto '07 - Glorious fruit over rocks and oak - young, but perfectly balanced and so, so long - gorgeous young wine. 90% Tempranillo/10% Syrah.

Alion (Vega Sicilia's Ribera del Duero estate)
Tinto '04 - Seamless - balance similar to Mauro, but darker, some bitter chocolate and game on top of the rich Tempranillo - sensational.

Riesling, in the hands of Steffen Christmann

2009-12-04T13:41:00.000-08:00

Yesterday Daniel Hubbard brought me some wine to taste, and in the process, gave me a great lesson on terroir in the Pfalz. We tasted four current releases from Steffen Christmann (current winegrower of A. Christmann). The wines:

Riesling '08, Pfalz. Read "Bourgogne Blanc" where you see "Pfalz" and you get the idea behind the labeling here. tasting notes: ripe pit fruit/mineral smells and barely sweet, sizzling, absurdly concentrated flavors - this is the "basic" wine?! At 11.5%, this is substantial and made me wonder how much better the following wines could be. I needn't have worried.

Riesling '08 , Gimmeldingen. Consider this one the "village" wine in the group. From the first whiff, it is obviously quite different from the "basic" wine. tasting notes: more mineral, then blossoms, then stoney sort of crystalline fruit - wow - sizzling. This wine, like the next two, is 13% alcohol.

Riesling '08 SC, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten. The "1er cru." tasting notes: saline/mineral/blossom/lime/pit fruit smells and crackling, sizzling flavors - imagine riesling grown on the ocean! Daniel insists the salinity is typical of the Pfalz. The "SC" stands for Steffen Christmann.

IDIG '07 GG, Pfalz. The "GG" stands for Gross Gewachs, the VDP equivalent of "grand cru." Indeed, it is why Steffen left "riesling" off the front label. Calling IDIG "riesling" is like calling MONTRACHET "chardonnay." tasting notes: ceverything - minerality/ripe blossomy fruit/ginger - sizzling acidity - incredibly rich texture with an electric current running through it. Great wine - I wrote this in today's email:

Sometimes I taste a wine that defies description. Written notes simply fail to adequately capture the experience of of tasting something that offers different facets of flavor with every sip. Imagine taking a still picture of a beautiful bird in flight; the photo can't possibly capture the experience of seeing the actual flight.

To Certify, or not to Certify

2009-11-13T13:48:00.000-08:00

I had a fascinating conversation with Mick Unti this morning. He called to respond to an email I'd sent him, asking about his viticultural practices - specifically, was the Grenache parcel the only vineyard he was farming biodynamically? Mick felt that the answer required more nuance than a short email reply.

To use the word "biodynamic" on a wine label in the USA requires certification by Demeter, the primary organization that monitors biodynamic farming here and around the world of wine. Demeter owns a trademark on the word "biodynamic" in the USA; so for a winery to use the word on their label without certification would be risking legal action. Getting certification, whether for biodynamic or more simply, organic, farming requires not just hard work, but hard cash. And for many winegrowers, it also means potentially giving up critical decision-making powers to outside forces. Winegrowers, being notably stubborn - I mean, you gotta be a bit crazy to want to work that hard! - often chafe at that last part; even if they have the cash on hand to pay for the distinction. Mick, for his part, isn't even sure yet that biodynamic viticulture is the end-all for Unti (he only started down the biodynamic road in 2005), though he is impressed with the results so far. Results, of course, are what I'm most interested in.

For me, the reality is that one day I tasted three wines from Unti Vineyards and all three knocked me out. That they are made without reliance on chemicals is clearly a bonus, but the most important thing to me is that these are delicious wines. If it is Mick Unti's choice not to join a club like Demeter, so be it. I can live with that as long as he keeps making great wine.

I don't care about points. I mean it!

2009-11-06T11:11:00.000-08:00

I was just getting ready to make my first blog post since the end of June, when I received a telephone call from one of my wine sales reps. All of the people that call on me know a couple of things about me. I do not like calls on Fridays, and I do not care about points. So this poor guy had to apologize for calling on a Friday before telling me his company was receiving 10 cases of a wine that got 95 points and asking me if I wanted any. I didn't yell - I know he wanted to give me an opportunity to purchase a wine that would be in demand, and he did ask me first if I'd heard of the producer of this 95-point wine. If I had known the producer and loved previous releases of the same wine, I might have gone for it, but I didn't. End of story. Now, why was I going to blog today?

Oh yeah. I was talking to one of my favorite customers, who happens to know a lot about integrating social networking with blogging and emailing, etc. He suggested that when I blogged, I should send a facebook message and a tweet to let my followers know I'd just made a new blog entry. So, while I don't know if anyone actually reads these things, here I am, blogging.

When I started this journal the idea was that I would post regular, even daily thoughts, about wine. I'm just not that organized, or thoughtful, I guess. But I'm gonna keep trying, because I'm not ready to say I can't learn anything else.

I've had some great visitors the past couple of weeks. Robin Daniel Lail, daughter of John Daniel, Jr., great-great-grand niece of Gustav Neibaum, stopped by to taste her current releases with me. Her dad was the first person to put "Napa Valley" on a wine label. Her great-great grand uncle founded Inglenook in 1880. Inglenook wines were famous around the world before the turn of the 20th century, but prohibition put an end to that. John Daniel, Jr. ran Inglenook from 1933-1964 (when the name and brand was sold to Heublein and relegated to jug wine status), and made some wonderful wine. Their home became the home of Francis Ford Coppola. Their home vineyard, Napanook, became Dominus, when Robin teamed up with Christian Moueix in 1983. She left Dominus in 1994 to co-found Merryvale Vineyards, then went off on her own to start Lail Vineyards. I have tasted her wine over the years, and witnessed steady progress. The current releases are wonderful, even the Sauvignon Blanc!

This past Monday I had a visit from Sabrina Tedeschi, whose family has an estate in Valpolicella. Just two days earlier, Danny Barnycz stopped in to show me an iphoto of the label from an Amarone he'd just drank in New York: Tedeschi's Monte Olmi '04 - he wanted me to find it, and two days later I'm tasting it with a Tedeschi family member! The Amarone was great, and so was the rest of the lineup - I bought some of everything I tasted.

Then, on Tuesday (or was it Wednesday, or yesterday?) I tasted three wines from Unti Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, California. Biodynamically grown Zinfandel, Grenache and Syrah -- all three tremendous, and so reasonably priced for the quality. I bought all three of those as well - they'll be in next week. Three home runs in just over a week - and just in time for the holidays!

France Trip Day Seven – The Jura, from Arlay to Arbois

2009-06-28T20:21:00.000-07:00

Healthy soil (left), unhealthy soil (right)

Jean Bourdy, Arlay
Jean-Francois Bourdy is the fifteenth generation to make wine here in Arlay at his family’s estate, founded in 1475. Bourdy is as much museum as working winery, with bottles from vintages ranging back to 1781, all of which, Jean-Francois insists, are drinking beautifully. To prove the point we tasted a 1955 (my birth year) Clos de Jura Rouge made from one-third each Pinot Noir, Poulsard and Trousseau, the three originally red grapes of Arbois. It spent four-plus years in barrel – the normal aging time for Bourdy’s regular wines – and was recorked a couple of years ago at which time it was topped off with more 1995 Rouge. It was indeed still kicking, with silky, juicy fruit. Neat. We also tasted a 1953 Clos de Jura Blanc (100% Chardonnay), which was more advanced, but also still fascinating, not unlike older white Burgundy.

Jean-Francois is adamant about tradition, about maintaining the history of his family’s domaine. He sees his time at the helm as the custodian of a tradition meant to be handed down to his children, their children, and so on. Of course, tradition did not prevent Bourdy from converting to biodynamic viticulture in 2005.

We tasted:
Clos du Jura Rouge ‘05
Clos du Jura Rouge ‘55
Clos du Jura Blanc ‘05
Clos du Jura Blanc ‘53
Vin Jaune de Chateau Chalon ‘02
Vin de Paille ‘02
Galant des Abbesses Macvin (an Arbois version of Pineau des Charentes, blending 1 part marc to 2 parts grape juice cooked with twenty different spices)
Cremant de Jura – we tasted this last because I requested it, and I’m glad I did; it was delicious.

Arrving in Arbois, we checked in to Hotel Jean-Paul Jeunet, then went in search of lunch. After walking several blocks we noticed La Balance, Mets et Vins – this was the surprise of the trip. Local wines, many organic and/or biodynamic, local food, prepared with great flair, intensely, exotically spiced. We spent three hours here, eating jellied beef (tastes much better than it may sound), guinea fowl, coq au vin jaune, two different types of Comté – drinking (all recommended by our terrific server):
Cremant de Jura, Clos des Grives (Bio)
Savignin ’05, Ligier Pere et fils
Trousseau ’05 “Grevilliere,” Daniel Dugois
Vin Jaune ‘76

It was a fabulous lunch, but it made us an hour late for our appointment with Stephane Tissot, who had a big afternoon set up for us…

Stephane Tissot – Arbois
With 40 hectares (about 100 acres) of biodynamically farmed vineyards, this is one of the world’s largest biodynamic estates. Before tasting we drove to the base of Clos la Tour de Couron, piled out of the car, and proceeded to climb to the top of the hill and up into the top of the tower. The plot at the very top of the property has been planted at twice the normal density, with 12,000 vines per hectare. One of the highest sites in Arbois, it offered an amazing view of the village and the countryside.

Next we visited another vineyard on flatter land, with completely different soil structure. In the middle of Tissot’s land, another grower, who uses pesticides and herbicides, has about six rows of vines. Tissot’s vineyards are lush and green, buzzing with life, with deep, high quality soil. The neighbor’s rows had nothing living between them, and distinctly sandy-textured gray soil (see picture above).

The Tissot family is large, with many different branches, and firmly entrenched in the Arbois tradition. Stephane, however, is constantly striving to improve his wine, sometimes coming up with new expressions. He is proud of the wine estate his parents created, but he is not necessarily encumbered by their legacy.

Then we tasted:
Chardonnay ’07, Classic (60% from clay soils, 40% from limestone)
Chardonnay ’07 Les Gravieres (55 year-old vines, 100% limestone)
Chardonnay ’07 La Mailloche (100% clay)
…then the same exact cuve, but from a bottle opened a week earlier, showing no oxidation…
Chardonnay ’07 Les Bruyeres (100% black clay)
Chardonnay ’06 En Barberon
Chardonnay ’06 Clos la Tour de Couron
Arbois Blanc ’82 (Chardonnay, with 10% Savignin)
Trousseau ’07 Singulier (Trousseau is a cousin of Touriga Nacional)
Pinot Noir ’07 En Barberaon
Traminer (Savignin) ’07 (Savignin fermented in stainless steel, no oxidation)
Savignin ’05 (2 years on flor, ala Manzanilla) – At this point Stephane emphasized the fact that the Jura was once part of Spain, and that they introduced the concept of oxidation and flor to the region.
Vin Jaune ’02 (6 years on flor)
Cremant de Jura Brut NV
Cremant de Jura NV “Indegine” – Cremant with native-yeast liqueur de dosage
Spirale ’05 Paserille (Chardonnay/Savignin/Poulsard)
Audace ’06 – 100% Poulsard Passito
PMG ’05 – a concentration of Spirale with 500g/L residual sugar
Macvin

Exhausted, we limped back to the hotel in time to change before dinner at the hotel restaurant, the Michelin 2-star Jean-Paul Jeunet. Dinner was spectacular, but we were so tired and a little full from that amazing lunch. There’s an obvious lesson here: one big meal a day is enough!
We drank:
Cremant de Jura Rosé – Domaine Rolet
Chardonnay ’02 – Emmanuel Houillon, Arbois Pupillin
Trousseau ’88 Cuvée Saint Paul – Camille Loye, Arbois
Chateau Chalon ’00 – Jean Macie
We ate spendidly, too, but I’m too tired to recount. Later.

France Trip Day Six – Beaujolais

2009-06-28T16:12:00.000-07:00

Chateau Thivin, Cote de Brouilly

After spending a good part of the morning in a great bookstore in Beaune, we headed down to Beaujolais, taking the back roads at first – through Mercurey and Givry – before finding our way back to the autoroute and racing down to Villie Morgon for our 3pm appointment with Marcel Lapierre. If you can believe it, we skipped lunch! Beaujolais is a different place from the Cote d’Or, with many more hills and valleys. It was another beautiful day.

Marcel Lapierre – Morgon
Maarcel Lapierre’s domain is certified organic (though they decline to label their wine as such, feeling their process is actually more stringent than certification requires), and they bottle 40% of their production without addition of sulphur. Average vine age is about 65 years, with some parcels over one hundred. They do not filter, but their wines are so pristine and clear you might think they did (until you taste them). We tasted with Marcel’s son Mathieu.

Morgon ’08 – sassy strawberry/floral, fresh and peppery
Morgon ’08 Sans Soufre – not unlike the first ’08, but a bit more tender and juicy.
Morgon MMVII Cuvee Marcel Lapierre – an old vines cuvee, with amazing concentration and depth.
Vin de Pays des Gaules – actually 100% Morgon ’08 from “young” (less than 20 years here) vines, only 5-6 day maceration as opposed to the regular 2-3 weeks.
Morgon ’07 Sans Soufre – pretty, ready to gulp
Morgon ’06 – a little reduction (sulphur) in the nose. This is a good thing, It blows off with a little swirling, leaving a deep, rich core of fruit.
Morgon ’05 – complex, spicy strawberries, savory, marvelous. Mathieu says this was a great vintage in Beaujolais.
Morgon ’03 – when we told Mathieu we hadn’t eaten lunch, he sent us back to the center of Morgon to a boulangerie to pick up snacks, giving us three opened bottles and this unopened bottles, to drink with our little picnic. The wine was delicious, as was the food.

Chateau Thivin, Cote de Brouilly
We were hosted by the sixth generation Claude Geoffray at this incredible 13th century estate on the border between Brouilly and Cotes de Brouilly. The two crus differ in situation and soil composition. Brouilly soils are mostly pink granite, and they’re situated below on the lower land surrounding Mont Brouilly. Cote de Brouilly vineyards are on the steep slopes of the Mont Brouilly, and the soil is dominated by blue schist.

We tasted:
Beaujolais-Villages Blanc ’08 “Margeuritte” – 100% Chardonnay grown on a parcel in Cote de Brouilly with high clay content not great for Gamay, but ideal for Chardonnay.
Brouilly ’08 – Fresh, strawberry/white pepper – brilliant character, and completely different from Thivin’s Cote de Brouilly, even the label.
Cote de Brouilly ’08 – This is darker, almost blueberry – vivid, penetrating, not as overtly fruity as Brouilly, but terrific.
Brouilly ’07 – more fleshed out than ‘08, but still firm and fresh.
Cote de Brouilly ’07 – classid Thivin.
Cote de Brouilly ’06 Cuvée Zaccharie – oak-aged cuve selected from best lots in cellar – a different, deeper expression, but it works if you give it time.
Cote de Brouilly ’00 La Chapelle – a special parcel high on the slope – this is mature, but full of fruit – savory apricot/cherry/mushroom flavors. Neat.

We drove back to Beaune and dined at the Hotel. Another bottle of Philliponnat Rosé Champagne, then a fascinating white: Heritieres du Comte Lafon Macon-Bussiers ’03…the waiter was reluctant to serve it; he was probably afraid of the mold covering most of the label; but it was fresh, light in color, beautifully developed, maybe a little low in acidity, but delicious. We finished our last dinner in Beaune with Matrot Volnay-Santenots 1er Cru ’05 – terrific, if young yet…I’d be happy to have a case to follow its progress over the next decade or so.

Before I pack for our drive to Arbois tomorrow, a thought about the many ’07 Burgundies I tasted this visit. If you want to learn about what a place contributes to the taste and character of a wine, this is a perfect vintage. It’s not going to last as long as ’05, and the wines are not profoundly deep or concentrated. They are however pure expressions of grape and terroir and producer. Most important, they’re delicious to drink.

Time to pack. Until tomorrow

France Trip Day Five - Marsannay to Meursault

2009-06-24T15:36:00.000-07:00

Instead of detailed notes like yesterday, I’m going to stick with more general impressions.

2007 in Burgundy
Based on our experience this trip, the 2007 vintage has produced wines vividly of their place, smacking of the characteristics that make a particular site special. They’re not particularly big or tannic – most of the wines are going to provide great drinking over the next five or so years – but they’re beautifully balanced, a pleasure to taste.

Bruno Clair, Marsannay
We tasted with winemaker Phillipe Brun – ‘07s out of bottle. The quality was uniformly excellent. After yesterday’s visit with Thibault Liger-Belair, whose philosophy is that the vigneron should do it all, from the vine to the bottle, the arrangement at Bruno Clair has been different for a long time – at least since my last visit in 1995. Bruno is in the vineyards pretty much non-stop, while Phillipe is in the cellar, pretty much non-stop. It seems to work out just fine.

After a Marsannay Rosé ’08, we tasted the following ‘07s:
Marsannay Vaudenelles
Marsannay Les Longeroies
Chambolle-Musigny
Morey Saint-Denis en la Rue de Vergy
Vosne-Romanée Les Champs Perdrix
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru la Petite Chapelle
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cazetiers – this is my favorite of the Gevrey 1er crus…
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques
Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru – 96 year old vines; so elegant
Bonnes Mares – fragrant, lavishly fruity, decadent wine.
Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Dominodes – It may seem odd to taste this after a couple of Grand Crus, but Dominodes is always Bruno Clair’s biggest wine. It comes from 107 year old vines, and tastes of chocolate-covered cherries and raspberries; lush, powerful and concentrated. Unique.

Then a couple of older wines (yes, Phillipe poured them blind, and yes, I failed both times…):
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cazetieres ’02 – I thought it was pretty and delicate, so I guessed Clos St. Jacques.
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques ’93 – Caroline’s birth year… this was gorgeous, full of mushrooms and cherries, long. I knew it was an older vintage, but I thought it was one of the Grand Crus.

Then a few ’07 whites:
Morey Saint-Denis en la Rue de Vergy Blanc – floral/peach/cherry/strawberry – yes, I’m talking about a white wine. A totally different expression of Chardonnay. Neat!
Marsannay Blanc – 20% Pinot Gris (aka Pinot Beurot); this had a neat sort of red fruit/mineral scent; delicate, fragrant and persistent. A delight.
Corton-Charlemagne – surprisingly blossomy for the appellation, but not necessarily for Bruno Clair’s expression of it. Still, there’s plenty of lemon candy/oak/mineral character, densely packed, long and promising.

Lunch at Chez Guy, Gevry-Chambertin
What a fantastic lunch! It was gorgeous outside, as it has been the whole trip in Burgundy, and we dined on the sidewalk here. We were served a wonderful amuse bouche – sort of a deconstructed gazpacho. Then we started the drinking with a bottle of Marsannay Rosé ’07 from Dupont-Tisserandot, which was perfect with my escargots on a bed of incredible tomato coulis. We could have stayed with the pink wine, it was so refreshing, but then I caught sight of a rarity on the wine list: Henri Gouges Nuits Saint-Georges Blanc Le Perrier ’04. We couldn’t even taste this wine, any vintage, at the domaine yesterday. Made from a rare mutation of Pinot Noir that produces a white grape, it’s as delicious as it is rare. It was matched by a filet of dorade on a bed of sautéed fennel. Awesome combination. We had a cheese course, I had a dram of cold Poire William, and we were on our way.

Thierry and Pascal Matrot, Meursault
After a too-quick siesta, we drove down to Meursault, got lost in the maze of streets around the centre ville, were rescued by a woman walking along, who first tried to tell us how to get to Matrot, then hopped in the car and directed us there herself. It was a nice start to the evening. We tasted with Thierry in the cellar, ‘07s from the bottle:
Bourgogne Chardonnay
Meursault – both of these first two are on our shelves at CWC…
Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux
Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru
Puligny-Montrachet “Quintessence” 1er Cru – this is a blend of Puligny-Chalumeaux and Puligny-Garenne in new oak (an aberration for Matrot). Like Thierry said: “Hey, this is wine, we have to have an exception a day. This is ours.”
Volnay Santenots 1er Cru – the only ’07 red we tasted, and beautiful.

2007 is a “Matrot vintage,” perfectly suited to the style of the domaine – pure, fresh, exquisitely balanced.

We then drove over to the Matrot’s home in Blagny, near the top of Meursault, on the edge of Puligny-Montrachet. This place is an oasis, and we were fortunate to be invited. We were met at the house by Thierry’s wife Pascal and two of their three daughters, Adele and Elsa. It is likely that Adele and Elsa, both of whom have completed their university studies in wine, will take over Domaine Matrot at some point in the future - but at 23 and 21 years of age, they have some traveling to do first. We sat outside and sipped on Meursault-Charmes ’05 before going inside for a wonderfully cozy dinner, starting with jamon peresille and salad, drinking Meursault-Blagny ’96. Our main course was perfectly cooked plain buttered pasta and simply roasted extremely fresh – according to Pascal it had been walking around earlier today – chicken. We drank Blagny La Piece sous le Bois 2000 (this was very good) and 1999 (this was terrific). Finally three great cheeses (Comté, Saimantan, Citeaux) and Blagny la Piece sous le Bois 1988 – fantastic. The Matrots brought us into their house and shared their world with us; it was an extraordinary gift. Considering their day starts at about 5:30am, we left before 10pm, and drove back down into Meursault, surrounded by vineyards, as the light faded from the Cote. A wonderful day. Bon nuit.

France Trip Day Four - Nuits Saint-Georges, Chassagne-Montrachet

2009-06-23T15:26:00.000-07:00

This was a big tasting day...notes follow...

Thibault Liger-Belair - Nuits Saint-Georges
Thibault is a young man (34) and proprietor of a young estate (2002), who owns 19 hectares in some of the greatest vineyards in Burgundy. Biodynamic since 2005. The ’08 vintage was extremely short in quantity (Thibault produced an average of 22hl/hectare, or less than half the legal maximum), but seems very high in quality. We tasted the following ‘08s out of barrel:
• Nuits-St-Georges Les Charmottes – after lots of swirling to eliminate reduction, deeply spicy, vivid fresh, mineral/fruit – dazzling start.
• Gevrey-Chambertin Croix de Champ – flatter, extremely mineral and closed.
• Aloxe-Corton Cape aux Vert – pure, penetrating fruit – almost sweet, Wow.
• Vosne-Romanée Aux Reas – big, rocky mouth, with spicy fat fruit – yikes! Malolactic is not finished yet on this one.
• Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – located just below Bonnes Mares – floral, fresh, juicy, beautiful.
• Corton Les Rognets – bing cherry – ripe and full and long.
• Corton-Renardes – spicy/floral/kirsch, ripe palate
• Clos Vougeot – Cherry/raspberry liqueur/mineral/floral/spic – vibrant, really beautiful.
• Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les Saint-Georges – Thibault owns 2 hectare (the biggest single parcel) here, and is actively campaigning to have Les Saint-Georges elevated to Grand Cru. Floral/black cherry/mineral; dazzling, penetrating dark fruit/mineral flavors; v. rich and balanced.
• Richebourg Grand Cru – hasn’t even started malolactic; wild, almost cranberry-like fruit/mineral/floral – compact, but long and intense. Shorter than LSG.

Then we tasted the following bottles “blind”:
• Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Saint-Georges ’06 – I guessed Corton Rognets because I smelled bing cherries. Wrong. It was gorgeous though.
• Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Saint-Georges ’04 – this time I guessed Vosne-Romanée Aux Reas ’05 or ’06. Wrong again. This was big and spicy and concentrated.
• Vosne-Romanée Aux Reas ’05 – and this time I guessed Richebourg ’07, or LSG? Wrong twice more, but geez was this terrific young wine, dark, sizzling, intense and powerfully tannic.

Domaine Henri Gouges – Nuits-Saint-Georges
We met and tasted with Gregory Gouges, son of Pierre, nephew of Christian. Gregory took over winemaking duties with the ’08 vintage. He is the great-grandson of Henri – generation number four. Henri established the domaine in 1919; was one of the principal architects of the AOCs introduction to Burgundy in 1936; and agreed with the local vignerons at the time that Les Saint-Georges should not be declared a Grand Cru because they feared that higher taxes levied against Grand Crus would drive out traditional owners in the vineyard. We tasted the following 2007s out of bottle (the ‘08s are in the middle of their malolactic fermentations, and Gregory did not want us to taste them):
• Nuits Saint-Georges – a bit murky (not filtered); fresh, penetrating cherry/mineral smells – beautiful, soft, creamy textured, very drinkable.
• Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de Porrets – Les Saint-Georges (Monopole) – floral/mineral – firmer, more structure here.
• Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers – spice/meat/mineral – totally different, even though this vineyard is only 200 meters from Clos de Porrets – more closed.
• Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Vaucrains – floral/raspberry/mineral bag ‘o rocks, but so promising – average yield here is 20hl/ha, but only 18hl/ha in 2008.
• Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Saint-Georges – Dark; different level of extraction; black cherry/framboise liqueur/mineral/floral; leaner than Vaucrains but more extracted.

Thomas Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet
Thomas had only one hour to spend with us, but he made the most of it. His father, Bernard, split all of his own vineyards between Thomas and his brother, leaving only a small negociant business to himself. We tasted the following ‘08s from barrel – malolactic finished about two months ago:
• Bourgogne Blanc – fresh lime/mineral – lively acidity, compact structure. Neat
• Beaune-Greves Blanc – lemon curd/floral – wow! – delicious, like a lemon drop; wonderfully distinctive.
• Saint Aubin 1er Cru Le Puits – almost opposite to Beaune-Greves, all mineral/lemony, concentrated, with great structure.
• Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazees – class lemon/mineral; pure and compact, but very long.

Then we tasted the following ’07s from bottle:
• Bourgogne Blanc – mineral/smoke/lime; seamless, dry; wow.
• Saint Aubin – mineral, then blossoms/lemon/hazelnut; sort of more mineral, leaner version of Meursault.
• Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Baudines – mineral/lemon custard/floral.
• Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazees – a touch more candy here, as expected.
• Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot – floral/mineral – closed but complete feel in mouth; persistent, long, brilliant young wine.
• Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vide Bourse – tiny amount of this wine; some wood/lemon candy/mineral; long.
• Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru – lemon custard/blossom/mineral smells, seamless, rich, long. This is fun; lacy and elegant smells, intense, balanced, long flavors. Great.

..and then three reds:
• Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Vieille Vignes – expansive, spicy red fruit.
• Maranges 1er Cru Fussieres – classis Maranges: game, and lavishly fruity, ripe, neat.
• Santenay 1er Cru Gran Clos Rousseau – exotically fruity/Asian spice/almost jammy/framboise – wildly yummy.

After lots of tasting, and a truly terrible lunch in Nuits-Saint-Georges accompanied by a virtually undrinkable wine labeled “Nuits Saint-Georges Les Charmottes ’04,” it was time to eat and drink, so we returned to Ma Cuisine. Here are some highlights:
Food – Crème de Petits Pois (that awesome fresh pea soup a couple of us had yesterday); filets of fresh sardine mariniere; lapin aux herbes served cold; terine de foie gras; entrecote de boeuf; more perfectly ripe epoisses.
Wine –
Bernard Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2000
Comte Lafon (again!!!) Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu 2005
Christophe Perrot-Minot Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Richemones Vieilles Vignes 2000

And that’s all for today, folks!

France Trip Day Three - Bouzeron, Beaune

2009-06-22T15:17:00.000-07:00

Pamela (second from left) with Margaret, John and Rich

A & P de Villaine – Bouzeron
Aubert and Pamela de Villaine moved to Bouzeron in 1971 (the year of their marriage), making their first Aligoté in 1973. They campaigned to create an AOC Bouzeron for Aligoté, eventually succeeding in 1997. Aubert and their nephew Pierre were off on other appointments, leaving us in the care of Pamela, a native of California, who was a wonderful host.

We tasted:
Bouzeron ‘07
Bourgogne Blanc ‘07
Rully St.-Jacquess ‘06
Bouzeron ‘95
Bourgogne Rouge La Fortune ‘07
Bourgogne Rouge la Digoine ‘07
Mercurey Rouge ‘07

The ‘07s are uniformly fresh, pure expressions of their grape and place, with firm structures. They’re relatively closed now, but I’d guess they will open up pretty quickly. Evidently a weird vintage, with all the heat in April, then abnormally cool during summer. It all seems to have come together by harvest though.

We had a fantastic lunch in Beaune, at Ma Cuisine. For the third consecutive meal, we drank Comte Lafon! Highlights:
Two fishes – mackerel and salmon – in a bouillabaisse-style broth; a fresh pea soup with a hint of cream; fresh marinated sardines; with
Comte Lafon Monthelie Blanc ‘05

A short side of pork ribs so tender and flavorful it was like having an exotic delicacy for the first time; veal kidneys; perfectly ripe, raw milk epoisses; with
JF Coche-Dury Monthelie Rouge ‘06

We needed another bottle – the proprietor picked a Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Rouge ’07 “La Montagne” – like the Villaine wines earlier, and the Simon Bize ’07 Bourgogne Rouge we had later for a “light” dinner at La Gourmande, a fresh, pretty young wine.

After lunch we took a stroll out of the hotel, walking north along Rue l’Aigle, along a quiet residential street, and after less than a mile, directly into the vineyards of Beaune-Greves. Unbelievable. Breathtakingly clear, sunny, mildly breezy, this was as idyllic a walk in the vineyards as you could ever imagine. I’d never spent much time in Beaune, always too busy tasting in cellars. It’s a lovely little city. The idea that you could live in a house a few steps away from some of the greatest vineyards in the world, well, I guess somebody’s got to do it.

Tomorrow we do three winery visits – those left standing will return to Ma Cuisine for another meal…A bientot.

France Trip Day Two - Dublin to Paris to Lyon to Beaune

2009-06-21T15:40:00.000-07:00

Whew! This was a busy day of travel, flying from Dublin to Paris, taking the TGV to Lyon, then regular train to Beaune. Went off without a hitch, though. In fact, we were early into Paris via Aer Lingus, spot on time with French rails - just like the USA. Not. I know what you're going to say - what about the strikes? True, but when the trains run here (most of the time, actually), they run on time!

We're staying at Hostellerie Le Cedre in Beaune - beautiful hotel, with a lovely restaurant we just left. The wine:
Philliponnat Champagne Brut Rose NV - with a yummy amuse bouche that included a salty carrot tempura and sweet watermelon/...some other fruit which I can't recall/creme fraiche thing.
Domaine de Bongrans Macon-Villages '01 - totally botrytis smells (APRICOT), but dry and silky; absolutely incredible with a pressed Brittany lobster/asparagus/...other stuff...sorry, I need to get some sleep!
Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetieres '00 - with sliced Charolais beef, cauliflower puree, baby spinach leaves. This one was deep and gamey, almost decadent. A sensational match with the Charolais beef.
d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs Monopole '01 - with all local cheese plate, which included a spectacular piece of Citeaux. Wow, this was so fresh - brilliant, dazzling still-young wine.

It seems we've established a pattern - we close down whatever restaurant we choose for dinner.

Tomorrow we have one appointment - de Villaine in Bouzeron.

OK, I give. Stay tuned for more details tomorrow - sweet dreams.

France Trip Day One - Dublin, Ireland

2009-06-20T18:19:00.000-07:00

Molly Malone, Grafton Road, Dublin

If you're flying Aer Lingus to Paris, and you've never been to Dublin, how can you not take a one day layover? Can't. So, Rich, Mary and yours truly checked into the gorgeous Merrion Hotel in the heart of Central Dublin, and walked our jet-lagged butts all around the town. We saw Trinity College, including the Book of Kells and the Long Room Library; the General Post Office, site of the uprising of 1916, birthplace of the Irish Republic; the Dublin City Gallery, home to Francis Bacon's studio, relocated in its entirety from Paris, where he worked virtually uninterrupted, for thirty years; the Sinn Fein bookstore; Gallaghers Boxty House, where we partook of the traditional boxty (sort of a crepe filled with many choices of meats and seafoods) and jars of stout; another bookstore where I found several of Colm Toibin's other novels (besides the current bestselling Brooklyn); and a walk by Stephen's Green on the way back to the hotel. We napped, then met up again at 9pm to dine at Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, where I had an incredible meal... Moncuit Blanc de Blancs with a few hors d'ouvres; Leroy Bourgogne Blanc '02 with lobster ravioli; Comte Lafon Volnay 1er cru Champans '02 with loin of lamb; a wonderful selection of cheese and a glass of Simon Bize Bourgogne Rouge '07; assorted desserts, then back to the hotel bar for a shot of Redbreast 12 year old Irish Whisky and a half-pint of Guinness. The dinner was spectacular - no wonder the restaurant has two Michelin stars! Dublin is about the size of Baltimore, with a more concentrated central district that makes seeing lots of sights and experiencing lots of local flavor so easy. Considering it's only 6+ hours from Dulles, and only an hour and a half from Paris, it makes for a great stopover. I'll be back! Tomorrow we catch the flight to Paris, the TGV to Lyon and the train to Beaune. Bon Nuits.

Spain Trip, 18-26 April 2009 - Diary

2009-04-28T12:05:00.000-07:00

Spain, Day One - Madrid
Arrived around 10am, took crazy fast taxi from airport to central Madrid, checked in, walked around the neighborhood - the hotel is across the street from the Prado - drank two espresso doble, then took metro to lunch at Tamar. Great lunch - razor clams, cantabrian anchovies, monkfish, terrific queso; Godeval Blanco Old Vines; Mauro 2006; Mauro 2002. Walked back towards hotel, but stopped at Taberna Laredo for a bottle of Champagne - Paul Bara Rose NV. Back to hotel for quick siesta, but walked back through Retiro (Madrid´s Central Park) since the day was so beautiful. Then off to dinner at forgetable restaurant except for great big charcol-grilled steak and freshly cut fried potatoes and Rioja Alta Ardanza ´00 and another RA, forget name but 100% tempranillo ´98. Taxi back to Taberna Laredo for incredible heads-on Mediterranean shrimp, potato croquettes while downing Nellin ´06 Priorato Blanco and Comtes Lafon Meursault ´04 - definitely saved the best for last and that was saying something with the wine we consumed today. The weather was great during the day, rained at night. Long, rewarding day of comraderie, great food and great wine. Time to sleep and recover for tomorrow. Adios!

Day Two – Madrid; to Jerez de la Frontera
After ten bottles the first day, a light second. We woke late, had blunch around noon, then spent the afternoon walking around the city; ducking into a neat little modern museum when it started to rain, finding an exhibition of Vlaminck (fauvist). Sun came out, we kept walking, eventually coming upon the palace before turning back to the hotel to gather our bags and walk to the train station for the trip to Jerez. Jane Ward, export manager of Lustau, met us for dinner in the hotel. We drank mostly sherry (Puerto Fino, Domecq Vinas 25 PX, which Lustau purchased last year along with La Ina, etc.), as well as ’07 Arun Rueda. The meal was ok, but nothing like the food we ate the day before.

Day Three – Jerez, Sanlucar, Jerez, back to Madrid
What a gorgeous day! Got an early start, first driving to Sanlucar to meet Lustau’s Manzanilla producer. We were joined by Ignacio Lopez de Carrizosa, export director of Luis Caballero S.A. (parent company of Lustau, which it purchased in 1990), who spoke English much better than I, not to mention his native Spanish. Pepe (cellarmaster of Bodegas Manuelo Jurado) drew samples of Manzanilla Fina – the youngest, barely fortified, not yet sorted for future development – wonderful slap in the face of sea breeze/salt/yeast/citrus peel; Manzanilla Pasada – more developed, some nuttiness, very leesy; and Manzanilla Amontillado (20 years average age; like great Verdelho Madeira) – sensational, only 21 barrels at any given time, just over 100 cases released annually. We stopped briefly at the beach, where the Guadalquivir river meets the Atlantic ocean, under brilliant blue sky. Amazing.

Then back to Jerez for a tour and tasting at Lustau’s Jerez bodega. About twenty different sherries, from Lustau solera, almacenista bottlings and VOS (Lustau’s twenty year olds) as well as Moscatel, 1990 Oloroso Abocado, brandy and vineagar. The “basic” sherries would be most bodegas’ top of the line, while the almacenistas show great individuality and character. The VOS sherries are both the oldest (with the exception of the Murillo PX, average age 100yrs) and most concentrated, at each level – Amontillado, Palo Cortado and PX.

Lunch in downtown Jerez at the restaurant (name?) in the great building just off the main square. Fantastic! Six courses, all accompanied by sherry. The course to die for was served in a small martini glass – caramelized onions in the bottom, then fresh tuna, then pureed/liquefied potato topped with a sprinkle of paprika and a drizzle of herbed olive oil. Plunging the spoon down to the bottom pulled the paprika and oil through the potato into the tuna and onions in perfect balance – fabulous; paired with Amontillado Escuadrilla, a magical match. Foie gras; pork cheeks; sherry vinegar-laced ice cream – the food wouldn’t stop. Back to the hotel to pick up our bags, and back on the train to Madrid… all of us regret leaving the south so soon. I contemplated staying on, finding a little hotel room in Sanlucar, meeting up with the group at the end of the tour in Barcelona.

Day Four – Rueda and Tudela de Duero
After driving out of Madrid north to Castilla y Leon we visited Belondrade y Lurton in La Seca (Rueda). Modern building, one of the few buildings at all on the mesa, exposed 24/7/365 days a year to the persistent, often ferocious wind that blows across this 700m high plateau. Didier Belondrade came from Bordeaux to make Verdejo in the Bordeaux tradition – that is, fermented and aged in barrel. Early vintages (the first was 1997 or 98) were intensely oaky – as the years go by they have tempered the oak, switching to larger (300L instead of 225L), albeit still mostly new, barrels; using indigenous yeast on about 20% of cuve… the ’07 and ’06 we tasted were distinctly more elegant and balanced than previous vintages, but still, I’m not sure they’re worth the $40-45/bottle they would sell for here. They’ve started making a Tempranillo rosato – no oak, fresh, lively and especially elegant for dry pink Tempranillo. These people know what they want to do, and they’re making progress. We’ll see.

Bodegas Mauro – Tudela de Duero
We spent a large part of the day with Alberto Garcia, son of Mariano Garcia, owners of Mauro. Started with a visit to Vina La Oliva; 25-30 year old vines planted by Mariano in the traditional goblet method instead of by trellis. Then to the new winery up on a hill on the other side of Tudela to do some barrel tasting – ’08 Syrah (which comprises 10-15% of Tinto Mauro blend, and opaque, brilliantly intense fruit like northern Rhone Syrah); ’08 Tempranillo from La Oliva primarily (fragrant/floral/blueberry/almost delicate); ’08 Temranillo marked for Vendemia Selecion (darker, mineral/floral/deep meaty sweet black fruit – wow!).

Then we jumped back in cars and headed down into the old part of town to the original bodega to taste more from barrel – ’07, 50% of final blend including the Syrah (fig/black currants/toasty oak – it will be bottled in May-June - creamy already but with plenty of tannin); ’07 Vendemia Selecion (opaque; lots of wood/black fruit/mineral/bittersweet chocolate, sweet tannic fade); ’08 Terreus (a single block of 100 year old vines we visited after lunch next to a garbanzo bean farm in the middle of other grains – opaque; spicy/meaty/mineral/smoke/floral/sweet black fruit…incredible). Then ’05 Terreus in bottle – to be released this year (opaque; mocha/fig/black raisin/mineral/oak, already thick velvet texture over loads of tannin – extraordinary young wine).

Then a short walk around the corner to the restaurant (name?) – unassuming entrance in the old town, opening to a starkly modern though immensely comfortable interior – for lunch of locally grown esparagus blanco, jamon Iberico drizzled with olive oil, smoke river trout that looked a little like salmon but much more delicate, and 15 day old lamb prepared in the Duero tradition – braized in salted water; micro greens. We drank ’06 Mauro; ’04 Venedmia Selecion and ’04 Terreus. The latter two are simply a couple of the best young red wines I’ve ever tasted. You will see them in the store shortly after I return!

The hotel: Fuenta de la Acena. On the bank of the Duero, in a restored water mill. Astounding renovation – starkly modern but totally sensible, with an addition extending along the river’s edge composed of concrete, wood, limestone and a façade of glass, floor to ceiling, first and second floors. Ate dinner in the hotel – garbanzo negras with squid, octopus and cockles; oxtail from Vega Sicilia’s farm with potato. Drank Bollinger Special Cuvee; ’04 Alion; ’01 Vina Pedrosa Reserva. Whew, crashed finally, around 2:45am. Great day!

Day Five - Vega Sicilia
Vega Sicilia has been owned since 1982 by Pablo Alvarez, but the estate was founded in 1864. It was not only the first commercial winery in Ribera del Duero, it pre-dates the establishment of the DO by more than 100 years. Originally it was a complete farming community, with its own train station, and all of the employees lived on the property. It’s wine was world famous before 1900, and the Bordeaux varieties that make up about 20% of the blend of both Valbuena and Unico were among the original plantings on the estate. Today Vega Sicilia makes three wines:
Valbuena – 80% Tempranillo/20% Malbec/Merlot; aged three years in a combination of new American oak barrels and oak tanks, two years in bottle. Current release is 2004.
Unico – 80% Tempranillo/20% Cabernet Sauvignon; aged seven years in a combination of new American oak, oak tank and stainless steel tank, three years in bottle. Current release is 1999. Not made every vintage – there is a 2000, but no 2001.
Unico Reserve Speciale – a blend of three vintages, about 10,000 bottles released annually.

Vega Sicilia opened its own Ribera del Duero property – Alion – in 1990, where only one wine is produced, averaging about 100,000 bottles annually. It is 100% Tinto Fino (the local clone of Tempranillo).

In 1994 they released the first wine from their estate in Hungary – Oremus. They make a dry furmint, Mandolas, as well as Furmint Late Harvest and Tokaji Aszu.

2004 marked the premiere of their estate in Toro – Pintia – where, as at Alion, only one wine (100% Tinto de Toro – the local clone of Tempranillo).

After touring Alion and Vega Sicilia, we had lunch at Fuente de la Acena (including langoustines and wild mushrooms in cream sauce; jamon Iberico, a cured beef which I believe came from Vega Sicilia’s own beef (it is still a working farm which also grows alfalfa and a few vegetables); as well as Vega Sicilia raised beef cheeks. We drank:
’06 Oremus Mandolas – 6 months in new oak; honey/citrus peel/floral – creamy texture, dry, but soft. 14.2% alc.
’06 Pintia – fresh and fragrant (see notes on ’06 Mauro…maybe it’s a characteristic of the vintage) – v. pretty.
’05 Pintia – Wow – intense, meaty/black fruit – lively, rich, concentrated, elegant, especially for this DO.
’05 Alion – Wow – fragrant and pure and so young, but so damned drinkable – you want to gulp down big glasses of it. Terrific.
’03 Oremus Mandolas – Citrus flower over honey – lively and fresh, and a wonderful surprise. 13.5% alc.
’04 Vega Sicilia Valbuena – The wine of the trip to this point – notes can’t do it justice…deep, pure, persistent, intense, endless fruit. One of the greatest things I’ve ever tasted.
’99 Vega Sicilia Unico – Balsam/spicy fruit/velvet texture over massive tannin – so impressive but so freaking young… considering Vega Sicilia recommends drinking the Unicos from the 1960s for current consumption, that should give you an idea of what I mean. As impressive as it is, give me the Valbuena.

Then we piled into the van and drove to Haro (2.5 hours), tonight’s destination. Tomorrow we visit two Rioja estates – Rioja Alta and Vina Herminia, then a long (5-6 hour) drive to Falset. So, we’re calling it an early night – might hit the pillow before 12:30am!

Day Six - Rioja
La Rioja Alta - Founded in 1890, and essentially the first winery in
Rioja Alta, or at least the first to appreciate how special its
location happens to be. The buds on the vines around the bodegas in
Haro and Las Bastida are nearly ready to open. La Rioja alta is a
traditional producer, in the best sense. They have 9 million bottles
aging in their bodegas, along with some 75,000 barrels. They grow 75%
of the grapes they require, covering 1,100 acres of vines. They also
own Lagar de Cervera in Rias Baixas; Baron de Ona in Rioja Alavesa and
Aster in Ribera del Duero.

We tasted (sorry, too tired  for more detailed tasting notes):
Lagar de Cervera Albarino '08 - Rias Baixas
Aster '03 Crianza - Ribera del Duero
Aster '01 Reserva - Ribera del Duero
Baron de Ona '04 Reserva - Rioja Alavesa; this was neat...the vineyards
sit at 600m, nearly the highest in Rioja. Lively sort of vivid red
fruit, concentrated, still elegant.
....took a short break, then tasted,

all from La Rioja Alta:
Vina Alberdi '02 Reserva (by the way, all La Rioja Alta wines are at
least Reserva); 100% Tempranillo; spicy red fruit and creamy oak.
Vina Arana '01 Reserva - Tempranillo with some Mazuelo (aka Carignan),
2 years in barrel, one year in bottle. delicious; balanced , ripe and
spicy and seamless.
Vina Ardanza '00 Reserva - 20% Garnacha; more spice and red fruit in a more
compact framework, but long and elegant.
904 Gran Reserva '97 - 10% Graciano; 4 years in barrel, 6 years in
bottle  - current release! Orange peel, almost candied and spicy,
intense but elegant. Neat.
890 Gran Reserva '95 - 5% Mazuel/5% Graciano; 6 years in barrel, 8
years in bottle - current release! This was the bomb  - elegant but
rich, sweet, concentrated fruit. Remarkable freshness for 14 year old
wine.

Vina Herminia, Rioja Baja
Run by Antonio Palacios, this is in some ways the mirror image of Rioja
Alta. No estate vineyards, they purchase all of their grapes from
Rioja's biggest cooperative (which is also Rioja's largest single
landowner), but Palacios, being a veteran of the region and highly
respected, gets his pick of the best lots available. He blends freely
across the different zones of Rioja, looking to make wine with intense,
fresh fruit, doing less barrel aging. This guy has a clear vision, as
do all of the estates we've visited on this trip. All of the wines
tasted showed pure, fresh flavors, fine balance and style - they're
extremely well made.

We tasted:
Irun Verdejo '08 - Rueda. In screwcap. From the first whiff, it is
obvious this wine has some Sauvignon Blanc. Good wine, great with
lunch, but I'd rather they let the Verdejo stand on its own.
'08 Tempranillo Joven - Rioja. Vivid and sassy - yummy.
'06 Excelsus - Rioja. 40% Garnacha, some oak aging. The least identifiable as Rioja,
but plenty tasty.
'05 Crianza - Rioja. 15% Garnacha. V. pretty - modern but clearly Rioja
in structure and overall character, just a particularly fresh
expression.
'01 Reserva - Rioja. Balsam/toasty/spicy/ more red fruit - polished and
ready to drink but plenty fresh and lively. Delicious wine.
'99 Gran Reserva - Rioja. Lovely ruby color; fragrant, floral (dried
roses)/leather/red fruit/cinamon smells and seamless, elegant, charming
flavors.

Then we had lunch, with the above wines to drink:
stuffed piquillo peppers
Navarra DO white asparagus
potato, chorizo and tomato/red pepper stew
baby lamb chops grilled over vine cuttings
baby lettuce wedges with arbequino olive oil
red wine-poached pear and black currant ice cream

Fat and sassy, we hopped in the car and drove some 300km to Falset, checked into
the hotel and walked over to the restaurant La Vi-zzeria, a wine
restaurant that makes distinctive pizzas reminiscent of our good
friends in Bmore (Iggies!). We ate more...

croquettes with tuna and black olives
salad of greens, marinated wild mushrooms, "bacon" and their own
house-made arequina olive oil (one of the best olive oils in my
experience).
pizza with tuna, black olives and parmesan

We drank:
Nelin '06 Blanco - Priorat
Martinet Bru '05 - Priorat
Clos Martinet '04 - Priorat
...all three were extraordinary, but I'm out of energy and adjectives...time for bed.


Day Seven – Falset/Montsant/Priorat
We tasted some great wine today (and you know me – the better the
wine, the fewer the words), but what made this day the best of the trip
was the time we were fortunate enough to spend with Sara Perez and her
father-in-law, Rene Barbier. Rene is one of (along with Sara’s Father)
the driving force behind the creation of the modern D.O.s of Priorat
and Montsant and Falset. In the late morning Sara drove us up to the
heights of her Clos Escuricons vineyard and spent about two hours
explaining her philosophy and methodology. After lunch in Gratalops we
spent the next four+ hours with Rene Barbier – first he drove us to the
top of his home vineyard – Clos Mogador – then, after a tasting, he
drove us to one of the highest points in all of Priorat, planted to
100+ year-old Grenache, which makes a wine he calls Espectacle. We
learned the difference between schist in Martinet – loaded with iron –
and schist in Mogador, pure and dark; and the granitic soils that
produce Espectacle. The point is, these are some of the world’s great
red wines (they made terrific whites as well), and we spent the whole
day with two of the greatest winemakers in the world. And they thanked
us for being there! Incredible. What a fantastic week! Much more on
Priorat when I return. For now, a little sleep, then off to Barcelona
for a day to relax before the flight home on Sunday. Buenos Noches.

Day Eight – Barcelona
The Boqueria. Barcelona’s fresh market is one of the bigeest in the
world. Since we arrived at the hotel before rooms were ready, we walked
down the Boqueria and had blunch, or brunch, or whatever you want to
call it. Todd has been here several times, so he knew where to take us:
El Quim. This is a tapas bar with about fifteen seats surrounding the
kitchen/bar in which four men maneuvered in a space of about 30 square
feet. Watching them was part of the fun, but the food was kept us
sitting there until we could barely move, so stuffed were we with
navajas (razor clams); huevos con cipirones (fried eggs with baby
squids, and another huevos dish with those baby eels, the name escapes
me); fried green peppers; asparagus with sea salt; chorizos; blood
sausage; many cervezas… all so fresh and perfectly prepared and served
with smiles…a great meal. Then we accompanied Todd on his annual trip
to the salt-cured fish stand where he buys pails of anchoa de seca
(whole Mediterranean anchovies cured in salt).

We walked back to the hotel, dropped off the anchovies and headed back
out for a quick visit to the Gaudi-designed apartment building a few
blocks away, then stopped in a bar for a quick refreshment – cava with
tapas – but left after just a couple of plates because we felt less
than welcome. Perhaps it was the fact that the waiter didn’t know how
to properly open a bottle of cava and the flying cork just missed
Todd’s face – or perhaps it was because, even though we risked danger
by ordering another bottle, the guy just didn’t seem interested in
getting it for us. On the way back to the hotel, in search of another
bar, we came across a cheese/delicatessen/wine shop, and we put
together our own tapas to have back at the hotel. It was great, and it
didn’t stop us from heading out to our last dinner in Spain, at a place
called Can Pineda, for honest Catalan fare which turned out to be
another terrific experience. The bottle of note was ’04 Terreus –
amazing. The food, whew. Besides more great anchovies and white
asparagus, and monkfish with wild mushrooms, etc, two standout dishes –
a tomato/strawberry/onion/

ventresca tuna/anchovy salad; and a carpaccio of baccala that nearly brought me to tears. And so it ended, another great meal, more great drinking, great company – what a trip!

The Travelers:
Phil Bernstein
Rod Carleson
Colin Gent MW – European contact, driver, vinous genius
Mitchell Pressman
Todd Ruby – team captain, organizer, joke-teller
Matt Wood

27-29 January - Tasting Notes

2009-01-29T19:22:00.000-08:00

This was an exceptional week of wine tasting. From Monday through Wednesday I tasted roughly 75 wines, including the twenty-some beauties noted below. It wasn't the quantity, it was the quality, and the number of truly surprising bottles - it's not every day I taste wines from three varietals I've never heard of before (Amigne, Cornalin, Humagne Rouge, all from Switzerland). The following notes cover just the wines I will most likely purchase for the store...

In the store on Tuesday, 27 January:
Zarate Albarino Tra de Vinas 2005 - Rias Baixas, Spain. 3 years on the lees in stainless steel; creamy texture, but pure mineral/intense fruit/lees smells and flavors...extraordinary. Biodynamic.

Venus La Universal Dido 2005 - Montsant, Spain.
Garnacha (primarily)/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend by Sara Perez; ripe berry/floral/mineral smells, incredibly juicy, silky-textured, luscious - delicious. Tender, especially for this region.

Nomade Torrontes 2007 - Cafayate, Argentina.
A different level for Torrontes - lees/intense floral/mineral fruit, great feel, balance. Great value. biodynamic.

Nomade Malbec 2005 - Mendoza, Argentina
Like the previous two vintages, plump, juicy, great texture, yummy - both Nomades have special nuance.

Catena Tahuan Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 - Mendoza, Argentina
Classic Cabernet Sauvignon smells - herbs/cassis/mineral - with ripe, deep flavors. Much better than the '03, which seemed raw. This is plenty assertive, but better balanced. Great buy.

Casa Marin Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Cipresses - San Antonio Valley, Chile
Assertive Sauvignon Blanc smells - herbs/apricot/mineral/even a little cat piss; ripe but sizzling flavors that won't quit. Distinctive - this won't be for everyone, but SB lovers will probably flip. San Antonio Valley is on the west side of Chile's coastal range, just a few kilometers from the Pacific Ocean.

Casa Marin Pinot Noir 2006 Litoral: - San Antonio Valley, Chile
Toast/smoky/black-bing cherry/cinamon smells and extravagant, but balanced, persistent flavors. Reminds me of high quality Cote de Nuits (Vosne-Romanee/Clos Vougeot perhaps). Lots of oak, but it works. Stunning.

The following wines were tasting in NYC at Trellis on Tenth (10th ave and 24th street), during a tasting/lunch with the proprietors and their importer, Neal Rosenthal. Vetroz is a small village in the Valais - the valley formed by the Rhone River just east of its origin from Lac Leman (Lake Geneva).
Roh Fendant (Chasselas) 2007 Les Ruinettes - Vetroz, Switzerland
Pear/blossom/mineral smells; silky texture over substantial acidity; long, fragrant, lovely.

Papilloud Petite Arvine 2007 Cave du Vieux Moulin - Vetroz, Switzerland
V. ripe fresh peach/mineral smells; vibrant, intense, rich, sizzling flavors - gorgeous.

Papilloud Amigne Grand Cru 2007 Cave de Vieux Moulin - Vetroz, Switzerland
Amigne is indigenous to the Valais, and 90% of its total of 26 hectares of vineyards are located in Vetroz. Yikes - intensely floral/fresh greens/honey/mineral smells and sizzling, crackling, penetrating flavors - fabulous. Amigne is classified by sweetness with a simple symbol - one to three bees, somewhere on the label. One bee = 1-9g/l sugar; two bees = 9-14g/l; three bees = 24+g/l. This example has one bee - virtually dry.

Cottagnoud Amigne Grand Cru Fletrie 2005 Cave de Tilleuls - Vetroz, Switzerland
Forget trying to describe this - coconut essence? psychedelic, electric, vivid, absurdly concentrated (200g residual sugar, 30% botrytis), unique. Fletrie = dessert wine.

Cottagnaud Pinot Noir 2007 Cave des Tilleuls - Vetroz, Switzerland
Mountain Pinot Noir (like Valle d'Aoste, over the Mont Blanc, in Italy) - intensely floral/cherry/cinamon/mineral (schist) smells and firm, focused, persistent flavors. yum.

Then off to Neal Rosenthal's store on the upper east side.
Foreau (Clos Naudin) 2005 Demi-Sec - Vouvray, France
Honey/lees/mineral/floral/dried pit fruit smells and slightly sweet, penetrating, sizzling flavors. Wow. A great Vouvray.

Cheveau 2007 En Rontey - Saint Amour (Beaujolais Cru), France
Wildly fragrant floral/cherry/white pepper smells and fresh, juicy, snappy flavors. No carbonic maceration.

Puffeney Poulsard 2005 - Arbois (Jura), France
Fascinating, after tasting Gamay and Pinot Noir, to taste a Poulsard - candied/dried fruit/spice smells and intensely ripe, beautifully balanced flavors. Delicious.

Chateau Saint Jean de Lavaud Rouge 2006 - Lalande de Pomerol, France
80% Merlot/Cabernet Franc - smoky/herb/cigar box/toasty/cherry smells and full, voluptuously textured, but still classic, flavors.

Cuilleron Rouge 2006 L'Amarybelle - Saint Joseph (Rhone), France
Roasted black fruit/floral/spice smells and ripe, succulent, sassy flavors. Delicious.

Back in the store (Thursday, 29 January), with the proprietor.
Canalicchio di Sopra, Montalcino (Toscana), Italy. Fifteen hectares in the Canalicchio zone - 100% Sangiovese Grosso (Brunello).
Rosso 2006 - so classic - firm, persistent, pure dark sour cherries. The Rosso is a barrel selection, made after one year of age.
Brunello di Montalcino 2001 - chocolate/mushroom/sour cherries - balanced, savory - wow.
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1999 - plush (for Canalicchio), rich, ripe dark cherries/chocolate - scrumptious, though still young.
Brunello di Montalcino 1998 - seamless - mature, but not old - creamy, long, substantial and delicious...this was a bad vintage?
Brunello di Montalcino 1996 - Simply beautiful, though less concentrated than the '98 - ready to drink, but it should be fine for years more. Another remarkable wine from what was a less than remarkable vintage.

5 January 2009 - 2008: The Year in Wine (at CWC)

2009-01-05T15:10:00.000-08:00

CWC turned ten in 2008. The basic concept remains the same - find delicious stuff - wine mostly, but also other alcoholic beverages, cheese, salami, smoked salmon, chocolates, peanuts, even bloody mary mix; and sell it with a smile. We want you to feel welcome and comfortable, while offering goodies that might be a little ahead of the curve for Baltimore (or in some cases, New York). When we opened in 1998, Prosecco and Gruner Veltliner were a bit ahead of the curve, and not even the finest restaurants were offering as many as five sparkling wines by the glass. Estate-bottled Champagne? When we started up only a handful were available and nobody but Terry Theise was talking about them. Malbec? We had a few long before the first person walked in and asked us where our Malbec section was.

In 2008 a couple of trends blossomed. Yellow + Blue brought together organic viticulture and environmental consciousness with its remarkable pair of boxed wines from Argentina. Black Ankle Vineyards released its first wines, and from the first taste it was clear that our concept of Maryland wine would never be the same. It is indeed possible to produce world-class wine from grapes grown in our own backyard.

What follows is a short list of wines that surprised and delighted me this year:

Bubbly
Taltarni Brut Tache - Victoria, Australia. First, the wine is simply delicious, and pretty to look at. Second, it comes from a winery that I never thought was capable of making something so yummy.

House Wine
La Vieille Ferme Rouge 2007 - Cotes de Ventoux, France. The quality of the wine isn't at all surprising - this has been our favorite house red forever - but the fact that they put it in a 3-liter bag-in-the-box is a boon for all of those people out there that want one, maybe two glasses of good and fresh and cheap red wine a night without opening a new bottle every time.

Spain
Rotllan Torra '02 - Priorat, Spain. Patience pays. When this wine was first released it was pretty much undrinkable. A couple of years later, it's delicious.

Italy
Tenuta di Valgiano '03 - Colline Lucchesi, Italy. From the northwestern corner of Tuscany, near the coast, Syrah and Merlot have been planted along with Sangiovese since the mid-19th century. This version (60% Sangiovese/20% each Syrah and Merlot) comes from a 50 year old biodynamically farmed vineyard. It was great - alas, it's sold out. The '04 is available, but like the wine mentioned above, it will require some patience.

2006 Red Rhones
Vieux Telegraphe - Chateauneuf du Pape. A great VT, it might be the equal of their 1978. Beaucastel was terrific as well in 2006, but not quite as surprising. For pure drinking pleasure, the just-arrived Catherine le Goeuil Cairanne cuvee Lea Felsch.

White Wine
Lackner-Tinnacher Sauvignon Blanc '07 Welles - Sudsteiermark, Austria. Who knew? This southernmost region of Austria, on the Slovenian border, is evidently a great place to grow Sauvignon Blanc. This could be the surprise wine of the year.

Dessert Wine
Yves Cuilleron Rousselliere MMVI - France
Supposedly made from a grape called Roussillon (not the region - this wine comes from the northern Rhone), left to raisin on the vine, perhaps pick up a little botrytis along the way, aged in barrel. 4,000 500ml bottles produced. Indescribable.

23 September - Made in Maryland

2008-09-22T18:04:00.000-07:00

It took twenty five years, but I finally made it to my first Maryland Wine Festival. I believe there were ten Maryland wineries at festival #1 -- this year there were thirty three. I can report that thousands of people were having a great time, tasting, drinking, lugging cases of wine to their cars. One of these days a local entrepreneur is going to open a Maryland Wine-only shop in downtown Baltimore (or Annapolis), not unlike the New York Wine-only shop in SoHo.

The question is, are there any world class wines being made in Maryland? The answer is yes, and more are on the way. Here are three wineries to keep an eye on:

Woodhall Wine Cellars. Al Copp's Woodhall Wine Cellars is one of the originals - one of the ten wineries in business since the inaugural Maryland Wine Festival. Woodhall, like most of the older Maryland wineries, has only a few acres of its own. They have taken advantage of a recent burst of activity in local wine grape growing to add a few stars to their "reserve" line. Hiring Chris Kent as winemaker several years ago, combined with acquiring better raw material for him to work with, has produced some standout new wines. The new raw material is coming from some interesting places like old tobacco farms in St. Mary's County and new vineyards planted by deep-pocketed landowners on the Eastern Shore.

Deep Creek Cellars. To this point in time, Paul Roberts has made his name mostly with grapes grown outside of Maryland. So what is he doing on this short list? Well, he is the most creative, original, yet well grounded winemaker in the state. Whether Vidal, Cynthiana, Cabernet Franc or Blueberry, Paul makes a compelling, delicious wine out of it. And as sources continue to expand for top quality fruit grown here in Maryland Paul will make more wine with a Maryland appellation of origin. Evidently his small parcel planted with three Pinots - Noir, Gris and Blanc - is close to producing its first crop for making into wine. It is also important to note that Paul mentioned Black Ankle Vineyards to me about two years ago - and took the time to introduce me to Ed and Sarah yesterday in the midst of wine festival bedlam.

Black Ankle Vineyards. Ed Boyce and Sarah O'Herron did a lot of research and traveling before deciding to attempt making great wine right here in Maryland. They've put their research into practice in a big way, planting, since 2001, some forty acres of vines on their estate outside of Mt. Airy. They are farming organically, with the goal of being 100% biodynamic. The vines are planted in the Bordeaux style, more closely spaced and trained higher off the ground than vineyards in drier, more Mediterranean climates (ie. California). The grapes are 100% vinifera - all the Bordeaux red varieties, as well as Syrah, Albarino, Gruner Veltliner, Viognier and Chardonnay. I tasted a few Black Ankle wines yesterday - hopefully you will be seeing them at CWC in the very near future.

5 May 2008 - Did He Really Say That?

2008-05-05T19:19:00.000-07:00

You know that I don't pay attention to wine critics. They're not in the business of selling wine to you, of being directly responsible to you for recommendations made. Even if they're full-time wine geeks, they're still removed from the face to face contact with you, the wine buyers/drinkers. A couple of part time critics, Al Spoler and Hugh Sisson, the co-hosts of WYPR's "Cellar Notes," are good guys whose original mission as I understood it was to provide recommendations from the point of view of the "average (wine drinking) joe."

I was driving home on the evening of April 16th listening to WYPR when Cellar Notes came on. The subject was Pinot Noir, from Callifornia and Oregon. Al Spoler expressed his particular fondness for Oregon Pinot Noir, and then stated that at this point in time French Red Burgundy was irrelevant. I almost drove off the road! Burgundy irrelevant? Besides being a ridiculous statement, it was so negative, when the current state of Pinot Noir around the world is so positive. Spoler could have mentioned that it was Oregon's Pinot Noir producers who, about fifteen years ago, in their quest to make better wine, came up with the idea of inviting any and all of the world's devoted Pinot Noir producers to Oregon to meet and share their ideas about how to make better wine from this difficult grape. We are enjoying the results of Oregon's "Pinot Noir Camp" in the current abundance of good to great examples in every price range. That is a story worth telling on Cellar Notes.

I'm not finished with this subject - stay tuned for the next CWC Wine of the Week...

11 March 2008 - Happy New Year?

2008-03-11T14:45:00.000-07:00

I know it's been a long time between posts when one or two of the five or six people who read this blog contact me in the same week wondering if I'm going to write a new entry. So, here are a few random wine-related thoughts.

What's new in the wine world? Besides another new vintage in the tank in the southern hemisphere, not so much. Not even a declining dollar can change the basic rule: the best values still come from Europe. The cheap stuff from California and Australia is still mostly too sweet and/or too alcoholic.

So many wineries are claiming that they are biodynamic that I'm beginning to wonder if they're all telling the truth, or they didn't want to admit it earlier because the world would have thought them insane. I'm not saying that the only way to make great wine is to go biodynamic, but here's a list of estates that have been doing it the biodynamic way for at least a few (or many more) years, who consistently make great wine:
Domaine Leroy - Burgundy, France
Movia - Brda, Slovenia (straddling the border of Collio, Italy)
P.J. Kuhn - Rheingau, Germany
Porter Creek - Russian River Valley, California
Stephane Tissot - Jura, France
Tenuta di Valgiano - Tuscany, Italy
Domaine Weinbach - Alsace, France
Wimmer-Czerny - Kamptal, Austria

If you still doubt that the globe is warming, you haven't been drinking much wine. Quick, when was the last "bad" vintage in Germany? Since the truly terrible Rhone Valley vintage of 2002, it's been smooth sailing -- that's five (2007 was evidently lovely) top notch vintages in a row. Same for Bordeaux -- heck, even 2002 wasn't so bad there. Burgundy? 2006 was supposed to be tough for reds, but overall, it's been good in this climatically marginal region for a solid decade. The overall trend is unmistakable. Each vintage has its variables, but the reality is that vineyards are more likely to produce overripe fruit than underripe. They're more likely to scorch than to rot, more likely to be ruined by natural disaster than simple lack of sunshine.

Time to taste wine (it's Tuesday, 6:30pm). I'll try to get back to this sooner rather than later - thanks for the push!

9 November 2007 - Sierra Vista Winery and Alcohol Sanity

2007-11-09T11:57:00.000-08:00

John and Barbara MacCready purchased their land in the Sierra Nevada foothills in 1972 -- first crush was in 1977. Their 32 acres of vines produce about 10,000 cases per year, of many different varietals. I brought in two this week a Cote-Rotie-like Syrah '05 Red Rock Ridge (the estate vineyrad) and their basic El Dorado Zinfandel '05. I love these wines for several reasons, first and most important of which of course is that they're deliciuos. Of course, there's more to this story.

The MacCreadys must have missed the memo that decreed all California Zinfandel come in at over 15% alcohol -- and 16% would be even better. In fact, theirs only hits 13.7%. Instead of high alcohol you get loads of character. Ditto for the Syrah (13.9%). Now, an alcohol content of nearly 14% is not particularly light, but compared to the current status quo you could be excused for thinking it is. It's deja vu all over again -- is anyone out there old enough to remember the California Zins and Cabernets of the late 1970s? In the drought years of 1976-77 it was not unusual to see Zinfandels with alcohols over 16% -- one Montevina Late Harvest, I believe it was the '77, checked in over 17%! Yeast cells start to die from alcohol poisoning around 17%.

By the early '80s, the backlash occurred -- consumers stopped buying those monster wines and all of the sudden California wineries got it in their heads that there was a category called "food wine." As if that were somehow a separate designation. To make their "food wine" many wineries just picked unripe grapes or added back acidity -- if the high-alcohol wines were grotesque, these new "food wines" were equally so in the other extreme. Thankfully every day wine drinkers rejected the "food wines" just as surely as they had rejected the monster Zinfandels, and for a couple of decades some sanity prevailed. When -- or is it if? -- sanity again prevails, perhaps it will happen without the "food wine" backlash. Thankfully, the world of wine has grown so much in the past twenty years, we can still find wineries like Sierra Vista that make delicious, balanced wine that's safe to drink near an open flame.

19 October 2007 - How do you grade an emotion?

2007-10-19T08:42:00.000-07:00

I had an extremely busy day of wine tasting on Monday -- took notes on sixt-two; didn't bother noting another handfull of truly awful specimens. I tasted some terrific new stuff, purchased six of them for immediate arrival. But one wine -- Tenuta della Terre Nere Rosso '05 Guardiola, Etna, Sicily -- stood out. Guardiola is a vineyard situated between 800-900 meters up the northern slope of Mount Etna, planted with 105 year-old Nerello Mascalese vines. The estate is owned by the Italian wine importer Marc de Grazia. I was floored by this wine -- with a store full of sales reps waiting their turn, time stood still. I immediately sent the sales rep to the warehouse (fortunately only a ten minute drive away) to pick up a case so that I'd be able to take a bottle home for dinner that night.

What was it about this wine? I'm tempted to say "on any objective scale..." but what does "objective" have to do with it? Sure, it's a well-balanced, technically well-made wine, but I'm not a scientist. I'm in the business of pleasure, and this bottle (and the bottle I drank Monday night) brought me immense pleasure. It never entered my mind to give it some kind of grade. I have wondered, however, when I will have a chance to taste another wine (this was my first) from this estate. Could the next one possibly live up to the expectations created by the first?

2 October 2007 - Wine Without Points

2007-10-02T14:11:00.000-07:00

We were cleaning around the shop last week, and I was asked if I wanted to keep my old copies of The Wine Advocate. I said yes because I'm a pack rat, not because I have consulted a copy of The Wine Advocate -- or Wine Spectator, or any other guide that gives scores to wine -- in the past five years or so. Not that I doubt the sincerity or character of the tasters. I do, however, doubt -- ok, I abhor -- the practice of giving a wine a score. The only thing more detestable to me is actually trying to sell a wine by a number, an arbitrary number. Or perhaps the number isn't so arbitrary after all? I have noticed, for instance, that the higher the score for a red wine, the more likely it is to be opaque in color and/or sporting an alcohol content over 16%. Red or white, a high scoring wine is likely to be aged in oak long enough to obliterate most of the character of the grape from which it is made.

How do I come to make such sweeping generalizations when I profess not to pay attention to scores? Well, those trends were developing a long time ago, and I occasionally get to taste a wine that I have been asked to get for customers who are thirsting for the wines with the biggest scores. The latest example was my first taste of a Molly Dooker wine -- the "Blue Eyed Boy" Shiraz '06, appellation South Australia, retailing for a cool $50/bottle. I'm not sure of the exact number -- I didn't ask -- but I understand all the Molly Dookers get big, big numbers. My notes are short: "16% alc. and it tastes like it." If you love big, soft, high alcohol, dark red wine without a lot of character, you'll love it. If it were readily available and you wanted me to order some for you, I'd be happy to do so. Will I carry the wine in my shop? No. Why would I turn down a $50 wine that I could sell oodles of? Perhaps because I'm slightly nuts.

How can I put this? I'm not the arbiter of taste. I'm not telling anyone that they should only like the wine that I like. In fact, my job is to find out what my customers like and get it for them, but within the context of what I've selected for my shop. I do have some big red wines with pretty high alcohol -- Amarone, Zinfandel and Chateauneuf du Pape spring to mind. -- however, I have limits. Outside of Amarone, which is after all made from raisined grapes, I tend to draw the line at around 15% alcohol for red wine. If that's not good enough for Molly Dooker lovers, then I'll try to special order the Blue Eyed Boy now that I know there is actually some available. But the fact remains that someone has to make the buying decisions in any wine shop. Some shops choose to buy wine by the numbers, and if that works for them, great. In my shop I get to pick the wine, and I do it the old-fashioned way, by tasting it. If I like it, and I have a spot for it, and I think I have a few customers who might like it, I buy it. If I'm not doing a good enough job of making customers happy I go out of business. Happily, I've survived nine years here at CWC without having to pick wine by the numbers.

2 September 2007

2007-09-02T10:45:00.000-07:00

If you've looked for a new blog from me in the past six months, all I can say is, sorry, I've been writing a lot of stuff in my CWC News emails that I should include here -- I just haven't been following through. Anyway, consider this post a summary of wine-related stuff I've been thinking about the last six months.

May - Israel. I made my first ever trip to Israel and despite my intention not to do much wine business, it happened anyway. I learned a few important points about this fascinating place. First, Israel is distinctly not paralyzed by the conflict with its neighbors. Life goes on, vibrantly. Wine-wise this tiny country has a burgeoning industry, with nearly 300 wineries. This should not be surprising given the ideal conditions for grape growing. It was a bit more surprising to find out that not all of those wineries are kosher. In fact, a couple of wineries I visited, known internationally for their terrific products, were adamantly non-kosher. As jews who are perceived by the orthodox as somehow less jewish, they simply refuse to abide by rules that require the hiring of "observant" jews to work in the vineyards and winery.

July - Paris. Instead of staying in a hotel, we rented an apartment in the Marais. It was a different experience living in a residential neighborhood, getting up every morning to do pick up fresh baguettes, patisserie, fromages. We visited a tiny wine shop called Julien, Caviste -- talking to Julien about wine was a little like talking to myself. Handpicked wines, many from producers we have met if not visited.

August - Baltimore. The current wine of the week:

Mikael Bouges Sauvignon Blanc '05 "La Pente de Chavigny" - Touraine, France

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I never know, in the course of a day's tasting, if a wine will move me, or if one does, what it will be made of. I had just tasted a good Touraine Sauvignon Blanc when Eric the distributor rep poured this one. The first one, an '06, was typical of this terrific vintage, loaded with ripe melon smells and flavors over the top of the more classic herb/mineral character of Loire Sauvignon Blanc.

I was expecting something more classic in Mikael Bouges' Touraine Sauvignon Blanc because of the vintage '05 -- also excellent, but more typical. I was surprised by the first whiff -- a beautiful blast of apricot and melon -- but that was just the beginning of the surprise. In the mouth, all of this deliciously lively lime/herb/mineral stuff danced around. If I weren't tasting the wine again as I write this, three days after the first taste, I would have thought the sensation was limited to that first taste on Monday. Nope, it's just as wildly delicious today. I bet this would be incredible with a fresh slab of pan-roasted red snapper topped with a squeeze of fresh lime juice.

Tasting Notes: Apricot/melon/herb/citrus smells -- the lime, herbs and mineras explode in the mouth -- this is amazing -- dry and juicy and concentrated yet refreshing. Wow.

27 February 2007 - Southern Hemisphere...anything original down there?

2007-02-27T12:31:00.000-08:00

The short answer is yes, but geez, you have to slog through a lot of crap to find it. Here's a country by country run down of current conditions.

Australia
The distinctive white wine grape of Australia is Semillon. Without Semillon we wouldn't have Chateau d’Yquem or any other Sauternes; but as a dry white wine grape, it usually takes a back seat to Sauvignon Blanc. Except in Australia. As long as it's not blended with Chardonnay. Verdelho is another candidate.
Semillon of note: Kaesler '04, Barossa Valley

Shiraz (Syrah) is the greatest commercial success story in the wine world. Too bad most of the wine made from Shiraz tastes like grape jam. Not that there aren't plenty of distinctive, delicious examples -- they're just corks floating in an ocean of overcropped, overmanipulated Shiraz.
Shiraz of note: Possums '04, McLaren Vale

New Zealand
New Zealand is too new in the wine business to insult, but I predict in the next generation, when they’ve had more time for research, that New Zealand will be better known for some varietal other than Sauvignon Blanc. Pinot Noir is a possibility (given this example), but it might be something else all together different. Syrah, perhaps? After all, isn't New Zealand famous for its incredibly long, cool, sunny growing season? Sort of like the northern Rhone?

South Africa
South Africa has produced wine longer than any other country in the Southern Hemisphere. Still, its distinctive contribution to the wine world is a hybrid invented there in the 1920s - Pinotage.
Pinotage of note: Rijk's '02, Tulbaugh

Chile
I’ve been especially tough on Chile, which still deserves discredit for producing boatloads of cheap but utterly boring Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Cono Sur, by its work with Pinot Noir alone, is causing me not to change my opinion, but to reinforce it. Chile is a place capable of producing distinctive wine — its biggest wine factories just fail to do it. Currently, Chile’s best — or at least most distinctive — red wine grape (besides Cono Sur’s Pinot Noir) is Carmenere, which up until just a few years ago was mistaken for Merlot. It figures.
Pinot Noir of note: Cono Sur '06 78 Old Vine, Colchagua Valley
Carmenere of note: Terra Noble '04 Gran Reserva, Maule Valley

Argentina
While Chile mostly copied California styles for export, Argentina was busy making wine for its own people, who have always been significantly bigger wine drinkers. While Torrontes became Argentina’s distinctive white wine grape, Malbec (brought from France) became Argentina’s big red grape. After Malbec it's Bonarda in Argentina -- another import (a given for the southern hemisphere), but again, distinctively different. Not that North Americans haven't had a big influence in the growing Argentine export business, but using different grape varieties has definitely helped keep things interesting.
Torrontes of note: Crios de Susanna Balbo '06, Cafayate
Malbec of note: Melipal '04, Mendoza

16 January 2007 - Looking Back, Looking Ahead

2007-01-16T13:59:00.000-08:00

Starting with Champagne -- we always start with Champagne -- Billecart-Salmon is gone (from Maryland), again. It would be tragic if it weren't for H. Billiot and Moutard. First the bad news about Billecart-Salmon. They're imported by Robert Chadderdon, who has had constant problems maintaining relationships with distributors in Maryland. It doesn't matter who's to blame, it just sucks that a great Champagne like Billecart-Salmon gets punted around the way it does in Maryland. Now for the good news. After visiting H. Billiot, a tiny estate-bottler in Ambonnay (see the 12 September "back to school" post) I was able to order all six of their fantastic Champagnes to carry at CWC. Then Tom Calder, a broker who lives in France and finds lots of fascinating, delicious wine to sell here in the US, brings in Moutard, a small house in the Aube. Like Billiot, primarily Pinot Noir, albeit in a different style (and price), Moutard also grows three grape varieties that have virtually disappeared from Champagne. Their "Cuvee des 6 Cepages" combines those three old varietals (Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslieres and Arbane) with the typical Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay to make a delicious bubbly as well as a great learning tool.

More bubbly news in 2006. Movia (Brda, Slovenia) makes two sparkling wines from 100% Pinot Noir, Puro and Puro Rose. The catch? After three years on the lees they are neither riddled nor disgorged. In other words, you have to do the disgorging yourself! It's a little messy, opening a bottle of bubbly upside down, but the results are fascinating -- absolutely dry wine (after all, no disgorgement, no dosage!), but silky and frothy. Delicious, and a great learning tool!

I predicted great things from the Rhone in 2004 and 2005 -- so far, "great" is just about right. We're well into '04 Rhones except for Chateauneuf du Pape (though Vieux Telegraphe and Perrin et Fils' Les Sinards are both terrific), and I just purchased my first '05 Rouge -- from August Clape, no less.

After years of wondering when I'd taste something memorable from Chile, Vineyard Brands obliged by importing Cono Sur, a big winery with some 2200 acres of vineyards. Big in this case, at least so far, has not meant mediocre. Frankly, the quality from cheapest to most expensive that I've tasted, is shockingly good. I'll be keeping an eye on these guys in 2007.

In the US, Delia Viader lost most of her 2003 vintage in a huge warehouse fire near Richmond, California, but we were able to keep a Viader presence with her delicious DARE label Cabernet Franc. We look forward (probably not as much as she does) to her 2004 release this year. The happy story in California is Porter Creek, a small vineyard/winery in Russian River Valley, whose '06 releases amazed. In Maryland, I have only one problem with Paul Roberts at Deep Creek Cellars -- he doesn't have enough wine!

We brought in a bunch of new (for us) varietals:
Fie Gris (Saint Bris, France)
Roter Veltliner, Roter Traminer, Gelber Traminer, Rotgipfler Rodauner (Austria)
Petite Arvine (Val d'Aosta, Italy)
Barbarossa (Emilia-Romagna, Italy)
Arbane, Petit Meslieres (Aube, Champagne, France)
... and we had our first dry Brachetto (Matteo Correggia's "Anthos") as well as our first 100% Poulsard (Tissot).

I failed to do this last year, but I just counted the number of bottles with screw caps or other closures besides cork: 33+, or about 5% of our current selections. I predict the number will be closer to 20% by the end of this year. The coolest closure has to be the glass top, which snaps on and off with the help of a tiny ring of silicone -- elegant, easy. I had two irreplaceable bottles end up being corked this past year. What a waste.

The biggest news of 2006, and looking ahead to 2007 and beyond? Whether they're practicing organic, biodynamic or sustainable agriculture, increasing numbers of winegrowers are realizing that if they work with nature instead of fighting against it, they can make better wine. Even a few of the bigger wineries are getting it. Why put so much effort into making more and more cheap, crappy wine in the face of a global glut of the stuff when the only segment of wine consumption that is actually growing is the quality segment? Why overproduce an acre of grapevines in one place when another place is ripping up vines and planting almond trees or selling wine for ethanol production instead of human consumption?

2 November - More on Biodynamic Wine

2006-11-02T19:05:00.000-08:00

Is Biodynamic better? I can think of two current examples which indicate Biodynamism (is that a word?) makes better wine.

Rene Ostertag's Alsace wines used to be notable for the heavy dose of oak he used to apply. He's been 100% biodynamic for the past few years, and Ostertag wines have never been better, having a beautiful ripe, succulent texture balanced by a crisply "mineral" edge.

DeLoach Vineyards in California's Russian River Valley used to be notable for their gernerally harsh, too-acidic, shrill character. Converting their estate vineyards to biodynamic viticulture over the past several years, the wines are already showing a plush, generous, yet still lively feel.

So, is it biodynamic concepts that make better wine, or is it just the extra care and attention required to make biodynamic wine? In the end, frankly, I don't care -- but whatever these guys -- along with great wineries like Movia (Slovenia), COS (Sicily), Wimmer-Czerny (Austria)and Loacker (Italy) are doing, they should just keep doing it.

24 October - Happy Vines

2006-10-24T15:08:00.000-07:00

Maybe it's just a good feeling brought on by drinking good wine with good people, but for every mega-winery overcropping and centrifuging their dry little hearts out, there's a winery like Movia (on the Slovenian side of Collio) and a bunch of others, making beautiful wine from exceedingly happy vines. Ales and Vesna Kristancic make wine much the way the previous eight generations of Kristancics made wine -- biodynamically, before there was such a word. As far as they're concerned, it's the only way to make wine. Tasting them, I wouldn't argue. Supple, silky-textured, brimming with fruit, these are luscious, sensual wines. Is there a defining "Biodynamic" style? My tasting notes for biodynamic wines often contain words similar to those I used to describe Movia's wines.

It seems we've reached the point in the world of wine where it can be said that there is such a thing as too much technology. Why? Why do we find it necessary to make more wine than we can possibly consume? In our rush to produce more, easier and "cleaner," we have lost the essence of wine. Fortunately, some people never forgot, and others, eager to revive land handed down to them for generations, have returned to ancient agricultural ideas rooted in nature, literally bringing together heaven and earth to make happy vines. Offering us happy wines.

20 September 2006 - Where is Great Wine Made?

2006-09-19T13:58:00.000-07:00

Tuesday Tasting Notes from 20 September 2006:

I have a confession to make. I have said many times that at least 80% of a great wine is made in the vineyard — the cliche goes like this: you can’t make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. Most people who make great wine will say this very same thing, playing down the importance of their contribution to the wine in the bottle. But, this argument fails to explain what makes great wine.

People choose the right grape vines to put in the right places. People farm the vineyard, choosing to coax vines to push out fewer, if higher quality, grapes. People choose to allow grapes to ferment on their own wild yeasts; people taste, deciding when a wine has seen enough wood, deciding when it should be bottled, then choose to bottle their wines with little or no fining or filtration.

In other words, great wine people will make great wine in great vintages — and they’ll make delicious wine in less than great vintages. Lousy wine people will make better wine in great vintages — but odds are they’ll never make great wine. The great people behind tonight’s wines are the Perrin brothers (Beaucastel, Perrin et Fils), Louis Barruol (Saint Cosme), and Serge Ferigoule (Sang de Cailloux).

The Rhone Valley went through two dramatically different experiences in 2002/2003. In ‘02 they were virtually flooded out of their villages — the rain was torrential enough to send some vineyards right down the Rhone River. In 2003, a record heat wave killed hundreds of people throughout Europe, including the Rhone. Lots of extremely ripe-to-over-ripe wine was made in the Rhone in 2003. 2004 was less extreme, but supremely beautiful for wine grapes — you can taste
it in tonight’s wines.

12 September 2006 - Southern Hemisphere

2006-09-12T12:57:00.000-07:00

Here are some random thoughts about the current state of wine in the Southern Hemishpere:

South Africa is best known for Pinotage, that weird hybrid created in 1921, from crossing Pinot Noir and Cinsault. Recent trends are Shiraz (if you can’t beat Aussies, might as well join ‘em), and new regions like Tulbagh (see wine #8). My big question (which no one in South Africa has been able to explain, though some have agreed it exists) for South Africa is, what's up with that nasty, rusty/earthy/metallic funk that mars so many of its red wines? I used to find a slightly different funk regularly in wine from Chile -- no explanation there, either. If you ask me, I think it has to do with old equipment in old spaces, but I won't be the shop on that one. Meanwhile, check out Moreson's "Cuvee Cape" bubbly made from 79% Pinotage (the balance is Chenin Blanc) -- what a great thing to do with Pinotage!

Australia is the land of innovation, for better (no other country tries such adventurous, intriguing blends) and for worse (Oz is the hotbed of reverse-osmosis and other ways of de-alcoholizing over-ripe, otherwise useless grapes). Still, their Shiraz is so successful every other
country that grows Syrah is using “shiraz” on their labels. In other words, Australia has two distinct wine faces -- incredibly successful in the bulk wine business, yet still with incredibly creative individual wine growers who can come up with things like Cabernet Sauvignon made from partly air-dried berries (ala Amarone, at Mitolo Vineyards, McLaren Vale).

New Zealand is too new to put in any kind of perspective, but you gotta give them credit for making Sauvignon Blanc much more popular than it ever was. The big question here is, what's next? Where do they go after Sauvignon Blanc? Pinot Noir? In some spots, perhaps. Riesling and Gewurztraminer? First, the demand isn't there, second, several other regions in the world are way, way ahead. No worries (I know, that's an Aussie cliche, but it's appropriate here), New Zealand is a vinous infant -- give it time.

Chile might be breaking out of it safe position as producer of cheap, ordinary-but-inoffensive Bordeaux varietals — finally! Quite by accident, they discovered that much of the wine they’d always thought was Merlot turned out to be Carmenere — a much more obscure, but worthwhile
Bordeaux varietal that doesn’t exist in the homeland (France) anymore.

Argentina’s signature grape is Malbec — another Bordeaux transplant that is doing better in its new home than it did in Bordeaux. However, it seems to have a quality ceiling -- most of the Malbec I've tasted that costs over $30/bottle comes up short. I thought Torrontes might have a shot as South America's most interesting white wine grape, but recently they all seem to be too alcoholic -- 14+% seems too much for a grape whose most charming quality is fresh, lively fruit. The greatest promise for great red wine in South America could be in Argentine Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon blends -- wines like mapema's red blend, Catena Zapata.

12 September 2006 - Back to School (with Billiot Champagne)

2006-09-12T12:24:00.000-07:00

July and August came and went without one blog entry -- call it summer vacation. What did I do over my summer vacation? As far as wine goes, I did make one winery visit -- to H. Billiot Fils in Champagne, France. This family makes fantastic Champagne, just not much of it. With annual production of around 3,300 cases out of their 2 hectares of vineyard covering 18 separate parcels, this is as small as a Champagne winery can be. Despite the diminutive size, these guys make six different wines: Tradition (labeled "brut" but at least demi-sec); Brut Reserve NV; Brut Vintage; Brut Rose; Cuvee Julie (named for Serge Billiot's daughter) and Cuvee Laetitia (named for my guide, Serge's sister and partner, Laetitia Billiot). Being located in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay, these are predominantly Pinot Noir wines, and they all show wonderfully intense Pinot Noir fruit. What sets them apart is an uncanny clarity -- I mean, these are big, concentrated wines, but they are so pure and fresh and sharply defined, flat out beautifully balanced. Laetitia gave me a bottle of '99 Brut to take back to Paris. I asked her how she thought it stacked up to their '96 -- she insisted the '99 was better -- her favorite Billiot vintage of all time. Tasting the '99 later that night in our hotel room in Paris, I agreed. Tasting another bottle the other night here in decidedly less romantic Baltimore, I still agreed.

12 June 2006 - Ridge Vineyards

2006-06-12T18:04:00.000-07:00

Ridge, bonded in 1962, is pretty old by California standards. At least for post-prohibition California. David Bennion and three fellow Stanford Research Institute scientists purchased property up the mountain from Cupertino (this is south of SF Bay, and what is now known as Silicon Valley) with the idea of having a little country getaway not far from their lab in Palo Alto. They knew the property had some old vines -- the original parcel they purchased is now known as the "middle vineyard" of Monte Bello ridge -- but their original intention was to make a little wine for their own consumption. I don't know if they were aware of the history of the Santa Cruz Mountains, California's "golden chain," the first internationally recognized great wine growing region in the state in the late 19th century. Being smart guys, probably so. If that was the case, they couldn't have been too surprised by the quality of that first wine Bennion made, in 1959. I've never tasted it, but it is legendary. Consider it the first Ridge Monte Bello, even if it was essentially the product of a home winemaker. The wine was so good, the vacation home owners decided to bond the winery (making it legal to produce commercial quantities of wine), which was completed by 1962. It wasn't the first time Monte Bello had produced commercial quantities of wine -- the first winery and vineyards were established on the property in 1885, with the first Monte Bello Winery release in 1892. Osea Perrone, the first owner, planted the vineyards and built the winery that is still used today, on three levels of the steep hillside, utilizing gravity to move the wine gently from press to fermenter to barrel. David Bennion continued on as full-time winemaker at Ridge until 1969, when the job was given to Paul Draper, who is today still chief winemaker as well as CEO of Ridge Vineyards. Ridge Vineyards was purchased in 1986 by Otsuka Pharmaceuticals, which insisted, upon purchasing the winery, that absolutely nothing be changed other than making a lot more cash available for future vineyard acquisition.

I've tasted a few Bennion-made Ridge wines ('62, '64, '66 Monte Bellos), and a few hundred Draper-made Ridge wines. I've tasted pre-Otsuka wines and post-Otsuka wines. I doubt anyone unaware of the winery history would know the wines came from different winemakers or different winery owners. Bennion and his partners wanted to make wine the old-fashioned way -- ferment using the native yeast living on the skin of every wine grape, in small batches, with no fining or filtration. This was scary stuff in mid-20th century, post-prohibition California. The viticulture and enology department of UC-Davis was created expressly to help California re-establish a commercial wine industry. The goal was not to make great wine, but to make huge quantities of drinkable wine as quickly as possible. Paul Draper, another Stanford alum (philosophy) was hired by Ridge in 1969, fresh from building a new winery in Chile. Whereas most new California winemakers at that time were UC-Davis graduates, Draper brought practical, old world experience to the job. In other words, he was the perfect person to build on the solid traditional winemaking foundation Bennion had established.

A question to ponder at this point: Is it the winemaking or the vineyards that make Ridge special? Or could it be something as simple as a winemaker's good taste?

Ridge wines have changed over the years. In general, they are more luscious and drinkable sooner than they used to be. Even Monte Bello, which used to take decades (note the 1971 Monte Bello, which won the reenactment of the red wine phase of the Paris Tasting of 1976, but didn't win the first time around, when it was too damned young to be tasting good), now might only take a decade to taste good. Paul Draper and his great winemaking crew never stop tinkering -- "old-fashioned" is not the same as "reactionary" -- trying to refine a product that is already great. Still, Monte Bello 2002 is unmistakably Monte Bello, just as much as the phenomenal '71 or '77. Lytton Springs and Geyserville, both great, are still distinctively different. When Ridge added a Russian River Valley appellation to their Zinfandel selections (Ponzo Vineyard), the different character of that wine was immediately evident. Paso Robles always tastes like Paso Robles. It's all so clear, you would think it's simple. But I can't think of another California winery that does it better, managing innumerable small lots from site specific sources, making so many different, distinctive, special wines. Year after year they do this. They make so many different wines, you might think they make hundreds of thousands of cases. Nope, 60-65,000 cases is total production. Because of Ridge, I am willing to accept the concept that big companies acquiring small wineries is not always a bad thing. When Otsuka acquired Ridge in 1986, they could have done anything. They told Draper to do exactly what he'd been doing, with the additional task of purchasing as many of the vineyards they'd been purchasing grapes from as possible. Today, Ridge owns every vineyard it makes wine from, with the exception of Dusi Ranch (Paso Robles Zinfandel) and Trentadue Vineyards (key parcels of Geyserville). They built a second winery, in Lytton Springs, for making the north coast origin (Sonoma and Napa Valley) wines. Ridge Vineyards spares no cost to make the best wines they can make, and Otsuka picks up the tab -- now that's benevolent ownership!

4 May 2006 - Real Wine, #1

2006-05-04T18:48:00.000-07:00

It started with tasting two expensive red wines from the same producer -- a Merlot and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot first; I knew it was Merlot because the label said so. The Cabernet Sauvignon next -- again, the label was the only hint. No difference. Both wines were deep red, full of unidentifiable fruit and oak, soft and smooth and utterly devoid of varietal character or a sense of place. Silly me. I figure if you're going to pay between $40 and $55 a bottle, you should get a sense of what it's made from and where it comes from. It would be easy to blame technology, but the fault lies with the people who choose to use it. Instead of ranting about that, I thought it would be much more productive to make a list of wines made by people who make different choices -- they make real wine that smells and tastes like a particular grape (or blend) grown in a particular place.

Domaine de Fontsainte Corbieres Rouge 2003, France - 70% 85 year-old Carignan, the balance Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre. Kermit Lynch has been importing this wine since 1978. Always a remarkable value.

Frey Zinfandel 2004, Mendocino County, California - The oldest organic (and now biodynamic) producers in California, who seem to have figured out how to make interesting, delicious wines that are stable as well. Also from Frey, Pinot Noir 2004 and "Natural Red."

Nelms Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Columbia Valley, Washington - The second label of Woodward Canyon. Classic, polished Cabernet Sauvignon distinctly from Washington State.

Weininger, Vienna, Austria - Both Riesling and Gruner Veltliner, amazing character and concentration that, considering the price (@ $20), are remarkable values. This producer is new to me, but all three wines I've tasted have been special.

Louis Michel Chablis 2004, France - Nowhere else in the world does Chardonnay taste like this. Imported by Vineyard Brands.

Rene Leclerc Bourgogne Rouge 2003, France - Nowhere else in the world does Pinot Noir taste like this.

Cantina del Pino Freisa 2004, Langhe, Piemonte, Italy - Spritzy, sappy, fresh, unique and so damned tasty!

Casa Silva Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Reserva, Colchagua, Chile - Unmistakably Cabernet Sauvignon, imported by Vin di Vino, who specialize in wines from Italy and Austria (see Weininger above), and who, along with the list of names below, seem especially adept at finding real wine.

Real Wine Importers (incomplete, alphabetized):
Classical Wines - Spain, Germany
Kermit Lynch - France, Italy
Louis/Dressner - France, Italy
Neal Rosenthal - France, Italy
Rudi Wiest - Germany
Terry Theise - Germany, Austria, France (specifically Champagne)
Thomas Calder - France
Vin di Vino - Italy, Austria, Chile
Vineyard Brands - France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, South Africa, Argentina, Chile

Ides of March 2006 - A Corked Tale

2006-03-15T15:52:00.000-08:00

My wife and I sat down to enjoy dinner together -- a beautiful piece of fish, saffron risotto, a couple of fresh veggies, and a special bottle -- Coche-Dury Bourgogne Blanc 2002. I know, it was just a "basic" white burgundy, but it was from Coche-Dury, one of the greatest domaines in Meursault. This stuff is rare as hens teeth, and frankly, freaking expensive. Then again, I'd never had a bottle of wine from Coche-Dury that was less than terrific. Until this one. Corked. Damn. We owned exactly one bottle of this wine and it was corked. I didn't need this experience to be convinced that cork had seen its day, but it sure did drive home the point. But wait, it gets better.

The only other chilled bottle of white wine in the fridge happened to be another Bourgogne Blanc, this one a 2004 from Thierry and Pascal Matrot. It also happens to be the first Bourgogne Blanc I know of that's closed with a screwcap. Guess what? Delicious, just as delicious as it has been the other dozen or so times I've drunk a bottle. Was it as romantic as drinking Coche-Dury? If the Coche had been sound, probably not, but it wasn't -- it was just another potentially great bottle of wine ruined by a piece of tree bark. Ridiculous.

Matrot also bottled their village Meursault 2004 with a screwcap - it is also marvelous, and consistently so. We should all lift up a glass of perfectly delicious wine that was poured from a bottle finished with a screwcap, and toast Thierry and Pascal. Cheers, and Thank you!

24 February 2006 - Oranges and Pinot Noirs...Describing Wine, #1

2006-02-24T12:35:00.000-08:00

It's time to rethink how we describe wine. With all due deference to professor Ann Noble (U.C.-Davis) and her aroma wheel, it's time to cut to the chase. Since we do not have vocabulary to describe specific smells and tastes, we look for smells -- real (such as vanilla esters) and imagined ("tastes like chicken") -- that we're familiar with to use in describing the smell and taste of a particular wine. You know the drill -- Pinot Noir smells like cherries (or sometimes raspberry, or other times, strawberry, or even orange peel); Cabernet Sauvignon smells like cassis/bell pepper; Riesling, like flowers/petrol; Sauvignon Blanc, like grass/grapefruit/cat piss. Because -- at least in the case of imagined smells -- these words are mostly approximations and subject to our own personal smell memories, they tend to be less than perfect, often misunderstood, even misleading. They're necessary perhaps for novice wine drinkers, as rough indicators of what rookies should expect when they open a certain bottle. But in the end, wouldn't it be more efficient to coherently develop a smell/taste memory for different grape varieties, with sub-sets based on the different places they're grown and different ways they might be made?

I write wine tasting notes with the hope of giving my customers a rough idea of what to expect when they open a bottle of wine, but I realize how inexact the effort is -- not just in the description itself, but because the description is usually based on a pretty quick taste at a sink behind the bar, without food or other distractions. Not in a vacuum exactly, but certainly not the way most of my customers are going to drink the same wine when they get home. We do, however, share one thing -- both of us, me and my customer, are hoping for the best, that the wine will be good, even delicious. In other words the tasting notes are like thumbnails -- just a glimpse of the big picture.

On Tuesday nights, at our weekly wine tastings, I'm often asked by customers to describe what they are tasting, as in "tell me what I'm tasting." I wonder why they ask. I refuse. I try to explain that describing smell and taste is tricky, since there are no words in our vocabulary to do it, and I use oranges as an example. I ask them to describe the smell and taste of an orange. They probably think, "what an idiot." But they can't do it. I can't either. Of course, an orange tastes like an orange, everyone knows what an orange tastes like. And while they're all citrus fruits, we can all tell the difference between an orange and a lemon and a lime and a grapefruit. That's sort of the way I feel about, say, Riesling, or Sauvignon Blanc, or Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir. They're all vinifera grape varieties, but I can tell one from another. So can you. Remembering them, well, that's a bit more tricky. It requires experience. But if you tasted a few dozen different wine made from Sauvignon Blanc, and were paying a little attention, maybe taking a note or two, you would develop a smell and taste memory of Sauvignon Blanc. Repeat that exercise with most any other grape variety, start paying attention to other variables, like where the wine is made, how it's made, who made it, and in a few years or so, you'll know a little bit about wine. Do you have to do any of this to enjoy wine? Not as far as I'm concerned. Pay as little or as much attention as you want, as long as you are enjoying yourself. Selling wine is my job, yes, but anyone who knows me knows how much I enjoy my work. Just don't expect to become an expert overnight. In fact, never expect to become an expert, because it'll never happen. And that is part of the joy of my job. Knowing that every day I do it, I'll learn something new about wine.

I digress -- boy, do I digress. Beyond the fact that describing wine is at best inexact, it can also be slightly deceiving. When I ask you to describe the smell and taste of an orange, I bet many of you can almost taste an orange, just thinking about it. Have you ever thought about a favorite food and notice that your mouth is watering at the mere thought? Smell/taste and memory are so intertwined it is often difficult to separate the thought from the reality. If I tell you what to smell or taste in a wine, and you are willing to believe me, you will most likely smell and taste what I'm describing, because your memory will help fill in the smells/flavors you might have missed in your own attempt at describing the same wine. Not to mention that my own description will have been shaped by my own memory bank of smell/taste experiences.

...to be continued...

20 January 2006 - Looking Back, Looking Ahead

2006-01-20T12:52:00.000-08:00

I'll remember 2005 for Champagne -- the first time in years Jacquesson and Billecart-Salmon were both available, with their freshest cuves, in Maryland, in a long time; and for the incredible 1996s...which reminds me, my favorite Champagne of 2005 was Pol Roger Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill 1995. I'm guessing their 1996 will come out sometime this year -- I can't wait!

I'll also remember 2005 for the Perrin brothers' Chateau de Beaucastel, which released three of the best wines they've ever made, all 2003s: Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Blanc anc Blanc Vieilles Vignes (100% Roussanne). Looking ahead, 2003 at Beaucastel could mark the beginning of the most memorable three year run ever at this domaine -- stay tuned for the '04s at the end of 2006 and the '05s at the end of 2007. The other memorable wine from the Perrin's released in 2005 was the 2002 Les Sinards Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge -- essentially declassified Beaucastel, it was a great achievement, and a terrific value, in an extremely difficult vintage.

Somehing's happening in Paso Robles, California. Years of hard work are paying off at Tablas Creek (another Perrin project), and a new name popped up this month: L'Aventure, with an especially decadent blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah (2001). That makes three properties that I know of in Paso Robles with heavy French influence (the other is owned by Jean-Noel Formeaux, formerly of Chateau Potelle).

Spain continues its explosive growth in the USA. It's incredible to think that less than 20 years ago there was one notable new importer of Spanish wine (Classical Wines - Stephen Metzler and Almudena de Lugano) who was struggling just to get people to think past Rioja, and to consider for the first time a wine made from indigenous varietals in a backwater known as Ribera del Duero. Besides Classical Wines, another Spanish importer to look for on those back labels is Grapes of Spain (Aurelio Cabestraro) -- their selections always seem to nail the essence of a grape variety or a place.

2005 was the year I realized we have a tremendous winemaking talent right here in Maryland. Paul Roberts at Deep Creek Cellars in Garrett County makes interesting, compelling wine by cobbling together grapes (and occasionally fruit like pear and blueberry) from disparate sources (California, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Maryland). I know that I've always maintained that wine is 90% made in the vineyard, and I'm sticking to it, but Paul imagines a wine from a variety of sources that works out better than I could ever imagine. It makes my head hurt to think about how he does it, so I don't bother, I just enjoy.

A couple of importers stood out in '05. Kermit Lynch and Vineyard Brands both brought in so many terrific French wines, I couldn't make room for all of them. Vineyard Brands is also responsible for Los Cardos (Mendoza, Argentina), our best-selling "house wines." Louis/Dressner leads the way in off-the-beaten-track wines, especially Renardat's Bugey Cerdon and an amazing pink Pineau d'Aunis from Domaine Belliviere; and a couple of marvelous, under-appreciated producers in the Loire: Pinon in Vouvray and Pepiere in Muscadet. Another name to look for on the back labels of some of my favorite new French producers is Thomas Calder. Calder is responsible for Le Roc des Anges (Roussillon-Villages), Les Hauts Chassis (Crozes-Hermitage) and Tissot (Cremant de Jura) -- all three are big stars here.

Two great new names in California emerged in 2005: Kamen, Sonoma Valley, and Brown Estate, Napa Valley. Both make distinctively good Cabernet Sauvignon, while Brown also makes marvelous Zinfandel. In a few years Kamen and Brown will hopefully join Chateau Montelena, Ridge, Viader, Hendry and Flowers on my short list of consistently, reliably top-notch California producers.

I'm sure there's more -- this is far from a coherent, well-thought-out overview...stay tuned for updates. Have a great 2006!

2 December 2005 - Catching up again

2005-12-02T13:39:00.000-08:00

November since the last post on the 10th was a blur, but looking back, a few things stand out.

1. Brown Estate, Napa Valley. I've tasted a total of two wines from this family owned and operated winery in Chiles Valley (east of the Silverado Trail on the other side of Howell Mountain); a 2003 Zinfandel and a 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon. Both brilliant, but the Cabernet, wow. Think of those Fantasia hippos on pointe -- huge, but so graceful.

2. It's not Chardonnay's fault. I tasted several exceptional wines that happened to be made from Chardonnay. This can be such a good grape, but it's so abused in so many different places. Anyway, the wines that caused this revelation(?) were:
- Forman Chardonnay '04, Napa Valley, California
- Philippe Colin Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes '03, Bourgogne, France
- Domaine Lafage Chardonnay "Novellum" '04, Vin de Pays des Catalans, France
- Frescobaldi Pomino Bianco '02 "Benefizio", Tuscany, Italy
- Bernard Morey Bourgogne Chardonnay '04, Bourgogne, France
- Laurent Tribut '04, Chablis, France
- Matrot Bourgogne Chardonnay '04, Bourgogne, France
- dtour Chardonnay '04, Macon-Villages, France
...the last two bring up another point -- I can't wait for corks to go away! The Matrot is finished with a screw cap, and I don't consider it a coincidence that the wine is so fresh and juicy. Dtour is a bag-in-the-box brought to us by a cooperative effort of Dominique Lafon, Daniel Boulud and Daniel Johnnes -- impeccably fresh, classic little Macon-Villages that'll stay fresh for up to six weeks after opening. After all, some people can actually be satisfied with one glass of wine an evening -- in this package they're not penalized for not drinking more.

3. It must be Rhone season. A few special wines from the Rhone Valley:
- Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape '03 - see the last post...
- Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape '03 - as wonderful as V.T. is in '03, Beaucastel is even better. Given the new, higher price, it should be, but even at the higher price it's still a value for great wine.
- Philippe Faury Saint-Joseph '03 - Wow! This is the first wine I've ever tasted from this estate, and I want more! Sensational Syrah, and for the price, a bargain.
- Domaine des Hauts Chassis Crozes-Hermitage '03 - Frankly overshadowed by the Faury Saint-Joseph, this is still remarkably delicous Crozes-Hermitage for a song. Seriously, forget Graillot and Chapoutier.
- Domaine les Pallieres Gigondas '01 - You know there's a glut when a terrific wine like this is closed out by the local distributor. Classic, exceptionally delicious Gigondas from a terrific vintage.

4. Seven Hills Winery, Walla Walla, Washington. This marvelous little winery was out of the market for a few years here in Maryland, but they're back, and we're better for it. Gemlike Cabernet Sauvignon ('02 Klipsun Vineyard) and Syrah ('03 Walla Walla).

5. Jacquesson Champagne. Another one that's been out of the market for too long. I can't remember the last time Billecart-Salmon and Jacquesson were both available here at the same time, but they are now. Life is good.

10 November 2005 - More on Kuentz-Bas..Vieux Telegraphe 2003...The Latest from Paul Roberts

2005-11-10T19:05:00.000-08:00

I mentioned, in the last post, tasting the first Kuentz-Bas wine ('04 "Alsace") I every truly enjoyed. Thanks to Seth Stevens -- and thewinedoctor.com -- I've learned that K-B was purchased by Jean-Baptiste Adam, sometime in 2003, or early 2004. That could explain the sudden good showing -- J.B. Adam is a terrific Alsace negociant flying under the radar. They make my favorite basic Alsace wines. Seems their quality is rubbing off on K-B. I wonder what Kermit Lynch (K-B's US importer) thinks about the situation...

Vieux Telegraphe 2003
Chateauneuf du Pape
I can't imagine how winemakers in Chateauneuf du Pape kept their sanity intact after the 2002 and 2003 vintages. In 2002 the southern Rhone was flooded by torrential rain, causing many producers in Chateauneuf du Pape to declassify their entire crop, or what was left of it.

The very next year, 2003, was the hottest year in the history of the entire European continent, killing thousands of people by heat stroke. Vineyards that struggled to find a ripe grape in '02, struggled to get their '03 crop in the winery before it was burned to a crisp -- '03 produced the highest potential alcohols ever seen in the region.

For Vieux Telegraphe, a domaine that usually produces beautifully balanced, relatively delicate Chateauneuf du Pape, 2003 might be a perfect vintage. The wine is V.T.'s densest, richest, ripest ever, and still exquisitely balanced -- sensational young Chateauneuf du Pape.

Deep Creek Cellars
"White Linen Reserve" 2003 -- or,
"What you have to do to make world-class wine in Garrett County"
40% Seyval from West Virginia and Pennsylvania; 35% Chardonnay from California and Maryland; 15% Vidal from Virginia and Maryland; 10% Asian Pear! from the “estate” in Garrett County, Maryland -- Paul Roberts cobbles together compelling wine by finding delicious fruit wherever he can and making the wine with as little manipulation as possible (wild yeast fermentations, little or no fining or filtering, very little use of oak). He is a brilliant winemaker who happens to have a small vineyard in western Maryland.

Looking at the components of this blend could make you dizzy. Grapes from five different states. Asian pear? From Deep Creek's own Asian pear trees. How he comes up with a blend like this, I don't know. I could ask him, but frankly, it doesn't matter -- the wine is delicious, and unique.

8 November 2005 - A Month of Mondays (catching up!)

2005-11-08T15:06:00.000-08:00

10/17/05 - Tasted a bunch of Jeffrey Davies Signature Selections...with the exception of Puech-Haut Coteaux du Languedoc '02, all heavily oaked, tannic and alcoholic as hell. The same day, we tasted through the new wines of Domaine Lignieres, which purchased a great little property called Domaine de Baronnes on the Montagne d'Alaric in Corbieres -- seems big money is transforming a modest winery making classic, wonderful, cheap Corbieres into a fancy estate making I don't know what, the wines were so muddy and soft or overdone and harsh...what's going on out there? The day was saved by a couple of surprises: Keuntz-Bas "Alsace" Blanc '04 -- cheapest, yet best wine I've ever tasted from this mediocre producer...Laplace Madiran '01 (Domaine d'Aydie) -- a loveable Tannat (I always thought this was an oxymoron)!

10/24/05 - Vouvray madness. A couple of weeks ago I learned that Francois Chidaine was probably out of the Poniatowski picture in Vouvray. After farming some of Poniatowski's best parcels for a few years (and making some of his own terrific wine as payment), looks like Poniatowski is selling the estate to another concern with lots more money than Chidaine...sad. Today we tasted Huet Vouvray Clos de Bourg (sec) '04 -- incredible...happy.

10/31/05 - Chesapeake Wine Company's seventh anniversary! We celebrated the next evening (a deluxe Tuesday Tasting) with eight terrific wines, my favorite of which had to be Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose 1996 Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon.

11/7/05 - Which brings us to yesterday. After tasting a couple of neat Alsace wines (Dirler Pinot '02 Vieilles Vignes and Boxler Edelswicker '03), the day could have ended after Vieux Telegraphe '03 Chateauneuf du Pape -- this might be the perfect vintage for a domaine like Vieux Telegraphe, whose wines always seem sort of prettily balanced (for a place like Chateauneuf)...combine that elegance with a blazing hot vintage like '03 and you get a massively rich, nearly -- but not! -- overripe wine with wonderful balance. Sensational wine! Done.

7 November 2005 - What can a cork tell you?

2005-11-07T18:27:00.000-08:00

Not much. The cork in the photo came from a bottle of Chateau de Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone Cepage Syrah 1983. This was a bottle out of my basement -- it had been through four moves, never stored particularly well, basically knocked around for about twenty years.
Looks like hell, doesn't it? The cork was covered with mold on the end, soaked through, and broke on the way out of the bottle. Scary. So, how was the wine?

Extremely dark red, intensely roasted black fruit/herb/mineral/black earth smells and firm, snappy flavors that softened a bit with some air. Not a hint of oxidation -- in fact, the only complaint I had about the wine is that it's only marginally more accessible than it was twenty years ago.

In other words, the condition of the cork was meaningless. It usually is. Smell and taste the wine, leave the cork on the table, write a little message on it for your lover if it's a special occasion. Just don't let it cloud your judgement of the wine in the bottle!

11 October 2005 - Monday Tasting Notes

2005-10-11T12:50:00.000-07:00

Too Much! Despite increasing consumption in the USA, the world is glutted with wine. The day after reading that wine has replaced beer as the most popular alcoholic beverage in the United States, I read an article in the NYTimes about an AOC producer in southern France who was selling off half his 2003 vintage wine to an ethanol distiller for adding to gasoline. Yesterday we tasted several wines from a terrific producer in France's south whose wines are sitting unsold in the distributor's warehouse with little hope of moving without prices being slashed to below cost. Why? Because the market can only handle so many of the wines from different producers of any given region in the world, known or unkown, before the market is saturated. It's not even a matter of reducing prices, it's a matter of space, time, focus and energy.

Montepulciano. The grape, not the place. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, or Montepulciano from the Abruzzo region east of the Apennines and Tuscany, is underrated, underappreciated and ready to emerge from Sangiovese's shadow. We tasted a few extraordinary Montepulcianos yesterday:
1. Masciarelli "Marina Cvetic" '01 - The '00 was a revelation, but this one, wow. Dark, deep, concentrated, dense and perfectly balanced -- exceptional.
2. Three wines from Dante Marramiero, all made in a distinctly modern style, but still distinctly Abruzzi Montepulciano (Think Alejandro Fernandez and Pesquera from Ribera del Duero in Spain). "Dama" '03 is the "baby" -- so pretty and polished and pure; "Inferi" '00, almost too juicy and ripe at the expense of some grip, the sort of Montepulciano that would convert California Cabernet drinkers to Abruzzi wines; and finally "Dante Marramiero" '98 - as often happens to me when I taste the "top of the line red" entry of a winery, the new oak gets to me and I end up preferring the #2 wine (in this case, the "Inferi") - still, impressive.
All in all, a great day for Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.

Sancerre in New Zealand? The big, high quality Loire firm of Henri Bourgoise purchased property in Marlborough, New Zealand, and released its first wine, Clos Henri Sauvignon Blanc '04. Tasting it (sort of herb-spiked grapefruit juice with alcohol) yesterday, I thought: "For the same price, I could be drinking Henri Bourgoise Sancerre Cuvee MD, and enjoying it a whole lot more." I've tasted better New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (Seresin comes to mind) and much better Loire Sauvignon Blanc. In short, nope, no Sancerre in New Zealand.

Consistent Goodness. Three wines, one from Woodward Canyon's Nelms Road label and two from the Perrin brothers Tablas Creek, reminded me to start a short list of great wine producers (and a different short list of great wine importers) who consistently make terrific, often eye-opening wine. My short list would have to include Woodward Canyon in Washington state's Columbia Valley and Perrin et Fils of Chateau de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf du Pape and other points in southern France as well as of Tablas Creek in Paso Robles, California.

The Wines of the Day:
Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo '01 "Marina Cvetic"
Nelms Road (Woodward Canyon) Cabernet Sauvignon '03, Columbia Valley, Washington
Tablas Creek Syrah '03, Paso Robles, California
Firriato "Ribeca" '02 (60% Nero d'Avola/40% Perricone), Sicily

1 October 2005 - Random Thoughts

2005-10-01T12:20:00.000-07:00

Two issues popped up this week that made me stop and jot down a note to remind myself to write about them.

#1. The first issue was raised with this question: Why doesn't our store have a Chilean Wine Section? The diplomatic answer is that for "international" or widely known varietals we group the wines by the name of the grape, then by place. The less diplomatic answer is a question: why should we have a Chilean section? Think about it for a second. What are the primary wine grapes of Chile? Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere (previously thought to be Merlot), Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. They've recently been planting some Syrah, rather Shiraz -- big surprise. Any indigenous grapes? Nope. Any unusual grapes from other countries? Well, you could argue that Carmenere is pretty unusual, except for the fact that the people planting it probably thought they were planting the much less unusual Merlot. Is there a Chilean wine style? That question prompts another: are we talking about Chilean wine made for Chilean consumption, or for international consumption? What I'm getting at is the fact that Chile has based its wine export business on supplying this market with low-cost alternatives to familiar varietals. I can't argue with success, since they've largely succeeded with this approach. But it's so boring! How many of these wines do I need to carry? And what, in a place with such limited space, do I kick out to make room for these wines? Sorry, but you'll have to drive out to your local big-box discount wine/beer/liquorama to find a Chilean wine section -- it'll be right next to the cheap 1.75L vodka department... By the way, I would love to be proven wrong about this. Hear that wine sales reps? If you've got really good, interesting Chilean wine, bring it on, let me taste 'em!

#2. A customer was buying a bunch of different Chardonnays the other day. In the course of our conversation he mentioned waiting interminably for a case of special California Chardonnay to be delivered to Maryland from a store he contacted in California. They charged his credit card for the $500+ bucks a few months ago, then claimed it was too hot to ship during the summer. I asked him what the special wine was that he was waiting for. Turns out that special Chardonnay is available for sale right here in Maryland, and that I could order it for him and have it delivered the next day. The moral of this story is: Check with a local shop about local availability before shelling out extra cash for that "special" bottle. If it's not available locally, hey, have a ball. If it is available, hey, save yourself some heartache!

26 September 2005 - Modest Monday

2005-09-26T19:19:00.000-07:00

Mondays are tasting days in the store. Distributor and/or importer reps bring in wine for me to taste -- I taste, take notes and decide which wines make the cut, which ones don't, which ones I want immediately, which ones I'll add later. This is an "off" Monday -- meaning fewer reps, fewer wines to taste.

Joe Dressner (Louis/Dressner Selections) was in -- always entertaining and enlightening -- one of my favorite importers. Not surprisingly, his wines were the strongest group of the day, especially the '04 Bourgueil "Trinch!" from Breton -- pure, solid and lively.

The other winner of the day was the latest bubbly from Gruet, in New Mexico. Their Blanc de Noirs has been America's best sparkling wine value for years -- now it's #2, after this amazing 100% Pinot Noir Rose Brut.

After Dressner's wines and the Gruet, slim pickings -- more musty reds from Chile and South Africa...when I taste really bad stuff these days, I write either "no" or nothing at all. Lots of "no"s today.

5 September 2005 - Manufacturing Wine

2005-09-05T13:55:00.000-07:00

Let's start at the beginning. What makes a good wine? As the saying goes, "location, location, location." Plant good vines in the right place -- that means, not too hot, not too cold, exposed to plenty of sunshine, in dirt with the correct combination of nutrients, tough enough to make the vine work, not quite tough enough to kill it. A place where in a "normal" vintage, it would take about 100 days on the vine for the grapes to achieve optimum ripeness. A place where it rains a lot in the winter, but not much around harvest time.

Another requisite for making good wine is to not ask any one vine to do too much work -- in other words, don't overcrop, or force vines to produce too much fruit. The normal yield per acre in a high quality vineyard can run from 2 to 5 or so tons. Some vineyards produce less, but they're not too economical -- usually the resulting wine will cost hundreds of dollars per bottle. There are far more vineyards that produce more -- vineyards in the central valley of California routinely push out 10-20 tons per acre. In Australia's Riverina district, they're getting vines to produce 20, even 30 tons per acre. The world's "jug" wines are produced from regions like California's central valley and Australia's Riverina. I pretty much start any basic wine class with this statement: "In wine, quantity and quality work in inverse proportion -- as quantity increases, quality decreases."

Of course, conditions are rarely perfect. If the place is so warm that grapes ripen in a lot less than 100 days, the grapes lack the depth of flavor to make particularly good wine -- they have plenty of sugar, just not enough "physiological" ripeness. If ripening takes a lot longer than 100 days, rain or cold usually messes up the harvest. Winemakers have long had a few tricks to make decent wine in less than perfect conditions. Chaptalization, or adding sugar to the fermenting must is the most commonly known trick. It's legal in France, where in most regions, reaching minimum potential alcohol (in other words, getting optimally ripe grapes) is not always easy, even with global warming. Chaptalizing is not legal in California. Another totally and universally legal option is "green-harvesting" -- pruning just-formed bunches of grapes to thin the crop, forcing the vine to focus its energy on producing fewer, but riper, bunches per vine. Green harvesting can be used in both unusually cool seasons and unusually warm ones.

In Australia winemakers are thumbing their noses at the conventional wisdom. They're pretty much setting out to prove that wine can be manufactured. They've invented machines and processes that seem to be capable of making a veritable silk purse out of a sow's ear. Their innovations are sweeping across the modern wine world. Two such innovations involve the use of reverse osmosis. One use reduces alcohol, the other concentrates juice. Both techniques allow winemakers to ignore two basic rules of viticulture. The first, reducing alcohol, allows growers to pick grapes later, at higher sugar (and potential alcohol), and supposedly at "physiological" maturity. Final alcohol too high? Run it through the reverse osmosis machine and knock off a few %. The second allows growers to overcrop -- allow vines to produce, say, 20 tons per acre instead of 5 tons from the same acre. How? Pump the diluted, underripe must from overcropped vines through a reverse osmosis machine that discards the excess water, concentrating the remaining grape juice. Another Aussie invention, called the spinning cone, is also used for alcohol reduction -- Sutter Home's Fre, a non-alcoholic wine, is made using the spinning cone.

So reverse osmosis is utilized for making potentially thin, diluted wine dark and thick, and for making potentially hot, overripe wine taste smooth and rich. Winery consultants, recognizing that big, rich, smooth, low-acid wines get the biggest scores from wine critics (they're hard to miss in "blind" tastings), are recommending that their clients make use of these machines to guarantee high "scores."

How many wineries in Callifornia use reverse osmosis or spinning cones? Laurie Daniel, wine columnist for San Jose's Mercury News, wrote in her August 17, 2005 column titled "5 Little Wine Secrets," that "Vinovation in Sebastopol, which does reverse osmosis, says it has 1,000 California customers, while ConeTech in Santa Rosa, which has the spinning cone, says it has 650." Daniel estimates these clients produced 16 million cases of wine affected by reverse osmosis or spinning cone processes. That's just California. Don't forget, Australia is the home of mechanical manipulation of wine, and Italian companies are also making reverse osmosis machines.

In other words, chances are, we've all tasted a wine manipulated in this way. Can we tell the difference? The only wine that I've tasted and sold that I'm sure was a product of reverse osmosis is Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel '02, Spring Mountain District. How do I know this? Paul Draper wrote about it on the label. Laurie Daniel interviewed Draper for the article attributed above. Draper said that the grapes for that Zinfandel were all from the York Creek Vineyard, but that his staff, in blind tasting at the winery, could not identify the wine's origin and the decision was made to give it the more general appellation of Spring Mountain District.

Should the use of reverse osmosis in winemaking bother us? After all, other technological advances made since the 1950s -- let's use the invention of temperature-controlled stainless steel fermenters as the starting point -- are widely accepted and embraced. After stainless steel, add neutral pad filtration, bladder/rotating drum presses, sterile super yeast strains, gentler stemmer/crushers...get my drift? When is it too much technology?

With the exception of the yeast, every technique discussed in this blog is mechanical. You can argue that reverse osmosis, like filtration, might remove flavor components from the finished wine, but at least we're not discussing the addition of chemicals, or genetic modification of grape varieties. I'm not at all crazy about the idea of overcropping and concentrating the resulting juice, since it flies in the face of my "quantity/quality" formula, and most of the likely candidates I've tasted that have been subjected to that process still tasted like cheap grape juice. Does that mean I'm sure that I've never liked a wine that was produced by way of juice concentration? I don't know -- I'm not arrogant enough to be certain. In fact, I'm constantly humbled by how much I don't know about wine -- that's why I'm still plugging away at it.

I love the idea of "hand-made," un-manipulated wine. But when I'm tasting wine, the first thing I'm seeking is pleasure -- how a given wine reaches a point where it gives me pleasure is frankly beside the point. Worrying about how a particular wine got to be so good is like worrying about how the chef grilled that steak to perfection. In both cases I'm grateful that the people in charge know what they're doing. If I was sure a given technique always made better wine it would make life more simple, but I'm glad to say it doesn't work that way -- it's just not that simple, which for me makes life in the wine business much more interesting.

23 August 2005 - Hyde + de Villaine = Special

2005-08-23T18:35:00.000-07:00

Part of my job is writing tasting notes that give my customers some idea of what they should expect when they open a particular bottle of wine. It's never an exact science, but sometimes I taste a wine that defies description. When it happens, it's most often because the experience is too good to put into words. Enter HdV.

Larry Hyde is one of the best growers in Carneros, California. Aubert de Villaine is one of the directors of Burgundy's Domaine de la Romanee Conti, and has his own terrific domaine in Rully (Chalonnaise, just south of the Cote d'Or). Aubert's wife is Larry's cousin, so the families have known each other for years. After years of conversation, they decided to put their talents together under a joint label -- HdV. The grapes are 100% Hyde Vineyards, the winemaking is 100% de Villaine. The first releases came from the 2000 vintage.

It's not surprising that one of the three wines they make is Chardonnay. That one of the reds is 90% Merlot is also not much of a surprise. Even Syrah, which makes the third wine, has a good track record in Hyde's vineyard. What is surprising is the absence of Pinot Noir. I haven't contacted them to ask, but I like to think it's because de Villaine considers Merlot and Syrah to be much better suited to Carneros than Pinot Noir.

I tasted two of the current releases, both 2002 vintage. Both defy description, but I'll try. The Chardonnay is lean, intensely lemony, sizzling, minerally, but so concentrated and persistent -- it just wouldn't quit, and the end was more impressive than the beginning. The red, 90% Merlot/10% Cabernet Sauvignon, had a slightly murky appearance, but amazing intensity and purity. The only fruit I could think of was black cherry, but the overall impression was: put the pen down and enjoy. I look forward to tasting the Syrah -- other Hyde Syrahs I've tasted have been too much for me, but I can't wait to taste what de Villaine does with it.

12 August 2005 - How did Robert M. Parker, Jr. get to be "Emperor?"

2005-08-12T08:21:00.000-07:00

Elin McCoy, a noted wine writer, has written a book about another wine writer, Robert M. Parker, Jr., called "The Emperor of Wine." That a wine writer would spend a whole book writing about another wine writer makes me wonder. It reminds me of listening to reporters talk about the press -- themselves -- instead of talking about stories they wrote and /or events they might be covering. And if I don't get to the point of this blog soon I'll be guilty of the same narcissism.

What interests me about the subject of Robert M. Parker, Jr., is how he got to be so influential. My theory is that he stepped into a void created by lousy retailers. Merchants were, actually still are for the most part, unable and unwilling to help consumers find good wine to drink. I am often asked by customers if I've tasted a particular wine in my shop. They look at me like I'm crazy -- or drunk -- when I explain that if it's on my shelves, I've tasted it, that it has to get past my tasting test before I would subject a customer to it. What the vast majority of wine "merchants" do is purchase by the numbers -- the highest score for the lowest price. Which numbers? Pick any or all of them: The Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator, International Wine Cellar, Wine Enthusiast, blah, blah, blah. Many retailers will buy crappy wine just to get their hands on the coveted stuff hawked by the same marketing conglomerate. Another favorite of merchants trying to make a buck in a world of "discount" liquor stores is to buy "close-outs" -- wine that hasn't sold, either because it sucks, or because it was too obscure, or because it didn't get a high enough number. Sometimes the close-outs are really good, often not. How often do you think the merchant actually tastes them before buying them?

I am considered radical for having never posted a tasting note in my store that wasn't my own. Never. Scores? Scores are for merchants who are afraid to communicate with their customers. I purchase wines that I like, and that I hope my customers will like as well. In the old days I used to try to taste every wine that I could -- thousands every year. These days, I still taste lots of wine, but I'm not so worried about missing the next great wine -- there are so many great ones to choose from I couldn't possibly keep up. I have one reason for purchasing a particular wine -- I think it tastes good. My success or failure in the retail wine business is based on my ability to pick well -- the right wines for my customers. It's worked just fine for the past 25 years, thank you.

I'm so tempted to rattle on about wine writers -- but it's so not worth the time. I've got wine to taste.

26 July 2005 - A Tale of Two Labels

2005-07-26T11:56:00.000-07:00

Label #1: "Big Yellow Cab" Cabernet Sauvignon '03, Mendocino -- negociant label Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendocino Wine Group's Paul Dolan.

Label #2: Bishop's Peak "Rock Solid Red" '03, Paso Robles -- Blend of Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah/Petite Sirah/Cabernet Franc from Talley Vineyards (San Luis Obispo).

I tasted these two yesterday, almost back to back, although brought by two different distributors. Label #1, the Big Yellow Cab, is cute -- I mean, I love New York and I remember riding in big yellow cabs and all. The wine is actually ok, but nothing special for the price, and not especially identifiable as Mendocino Cabernet Sauvignon. I was left thinking "this'll look great in a great big floor stack in a discount liquor store." For Mendocino Wine Group, mission accomplished. For me, no thanks. I want fun labels that lead to even more fun once they're opened.

A few moments later I tasted label #2, an unusual blend from incredibly hot (temperature-wise) Paso Robles. "Rock Solid Red" is a bold looking label with a screwtop and a name that fits the wine perfectly. The blend of Cabernets (Sauvignon and Franc), Syrah and Petite Sirah is indeed rock solid, loaded with flavor and character and perfectly balanced -- a real, pleasant, surprise. Bishop's Peak is the old volcano on the eastern edge of San Luis Obispo, one of the "seven sisters" chain of mountains that serve to define the whole region. More truth in labeling. Price? Same as label #1. Fun label, terrific wine inside -- now that's what I'm talking about.

22 July 2005 - The First 2005 in a Global Market

2005-07-22T13:05:00.000-07:00

Baltimore, Maryland, USA. Our first wine from the 2005 vintage arrived today. Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rose, Stellenbosch, South Africa. It made me think of lots of questions. Do they make a big deal of the first wine of the vintage in South Africa like they do in Beaujolais, France? Since we can now easily get fresh new wine from the southern hemisphere in Baltimore, will Beaujolais Nouveau (when it arrives in mid-November) continue to be a big deal here? Do the French (and Italians for that matter) understand the simple concept that in (wine or any other) business it's impossible to be #1 forever? That it's inevitable they lose market share (and shelf space) to other countries in the USA as we become more and more global in our reach and thirst?

One of my part-time staff recently returned from three weeks in her native Australia. She was amazed that Australian wine shops had virtually no wine from anywhere else in the world but Australia. I noted that the situation was similar throughout Europe -- each country has almost exclusively its own wine for sale, and that she was particularly spoiled by working in a shop stocked with wines made from over a hundred different grape varieties, from at least 16 different countries. Where else in the world is this sort of selection possible? Well, the UK and Canada come to mind, but neither of those are big wine producers. Is it just that we're such gigantic consumers here in the USA? Or is it inevitable in a free-trade, ever-more-consumer-driven world that such variety and diversity of product be available everywhere?

12 July 2005 - Fact Check on "Independence Day"

2005-07-12T15:21:00.000-07:00

In my Friday, 8 July blog I wrote a few production/consumption facts about the USA and France. I checked my "facts" against statistics compiled by the Wine Institute in California -- while I was close, I wasn't exactly correct, so here are the corrections.

Wine Production
I wrote that the USA was now 5th -- actually we're 4th. I wrote that France was 2nd -- they're actually 1st, ahead of Italy, then Spain, then the USA.

Wine Consumption
I wrote that the USA had moved up to 50th in the world, creeping up to about 10 liters /year per capita -- actually the USA has zoomed all the way to 36th as a wine consuming country, but at less than 9 liters/year per capita. France is actually 2nd to Luxembourg in consumption at about 60 liters/year per capita, down from 91L/year in 1980. It is also worth adding that France is not alone in declining wine consumption -- Italy, Portugal, Spain, the U.K., Chile and Argentina have also seen similarly precipitous drops in per-capita wine consumption. So, is the USA all alone as far as countries consuming more wine? Nope, Denmark has more than doubled its per-capita consumption since 1980, while Switzerland, the Netherlands, Uruguay and Australia have experienced more modest increases.

11 July 2005 - Tasting Notes

2005-07-11T18:54:00.000-07:00

Faillenc Saint-Marie Syrah Rose 2004, Vin de Pays d'Oc, France
I tasted a pink wine today that prompted this thought: Now that it's cool to drink dry pink wine, is it possible that someday we'll be able to handle a slightly sweet pink wine? I know, it sounds too much like white zinfandel, but if we can accept Riesling with a touch of sweetness, why not a delicious, refreshing, compelling, and yes, slightly sweet, pink wine? The wine was a 2004 Pays d'Oc Rose made from Syrah, at Domaine Faillenc Saint-Marie. Brilliant deep pink color, intense berry/floral smells, and sappy, lively, slightly but distinctly sweet flavors. Was it the best wine I tasted today? No, it was actually a pretty good day for tasting, but this little wine was the most fun. Interestingly, the 2003 edition of Faillenc Saint-Marie was dry -- delightful, refreshing, and dry. And it sold quite well. So why did the winery change direction in '04? I would like to believe that they tasted the wine from tank, noticed the sweetness, but thought "hey, you know, this is flat-out delicious, let's bottle it -- now!"

Monarchia Pinot Grigio 2004, Hungary
Hungarian Pinot Grigio. Have you noticed that cheap Italian Pinot Grigio isn't cheap anymore? It's just as ordinary, just not as cheap. So, today I taste a Pinot Grigio from Hungary -- not hunger, Hungary. Beats, no, blows away, any $10 Italian Pinot Grigio -- geez, it even has some flavor! Chalk it up to the cost of land and labor.

Amancaya 2003, Mendoza, Argentina
A fifty/fifty blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec from a collaboration of Nicolas Catena and the Edmund Rothschild group. Good wine, lively, intense, balanced -- and reasonably priced. That's the notable part -- a glamorous partnership in South America producing a delightful everyday-priced wine, instead of a collector's item.

La Spinetta Barbera d'Asti '03 Ca di Pian
Giorgio Rivetti is one of Italy's great winegrower/makers. So, when I tasted the '02 Ca di Pian earlier this year, I fully expected a successful wine despite a terribly difficult vintage. Nope, the wine sucked, and was doubly disappointing because it was made by Rivetti, and it was more expensive than the terrific '01. He redeems himself with this one -- deep, dark, delicious and compelling as usual, and the same price as the '01.

8 July 2005 - Independence Day

2005-07-08T23:50:00.000-07:00

The USA's Independence Day has just passed and France's Independence Day (aka Bastille Day) is less than a week away. What does this have to do with wine? More than any other wine-producing/consuming country, we are linked to France. France provides so many of the benchmarks upon which we have modeled our wines -- especially Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Rhone and Champagne.

As wine producers and consumers, we Americans are catching up. Fifth to France's second in production. Fiftieth to France's third in consumption. That's right -- 50th to 3rd. Not even close, you say. And you would be correct, just looking at the bare numbers. USA per-capita consumption of wine has crept up to nearly 10 liters annually. I don't recall what our per-capita soda and beer consumption is, but I know it's at least ten times our wine consumption. France, on the other hand, consumes about 50 liters of wine per person annually. Impressive. Except when you consider that less than a generation ago, per-capita wine consumption in France was more than 100 liters annually.

French wineries are bemoaning a drastic reduction in exports. The weak dollar certainly has a lot to do with it, but France, the country that taught most every other western nation how to eat and drink, is deeply concerned that it is falling behind the upstarts from the southern hemisphere, especially Australia and Chile, when it comes to world wine domination. Meanwhile, USA wine exports, while still pretty small, grow every year. Just like the number of McDonald's, Subway, Pizza Hut and Burger Kings worldwide.

What are French youth drinking if it's not wine? Soda, beer, American cocktails. What are they eating? Big Macs. It's ironic -- we're obsessed with the "French Paradox," and French youth are getting fat on Big Macs. Not that we're trimming down, mind you. Nope, we're just as obese as ever -- it's just that the French are catching up. Fast.

What is it? Are the French saying to themselves, "Those Americans are starting to drink more wine and eat better food, so we should do the opposite just to be our usual contrary selves.?" I think not. I hope not. Is it a side effect of globalization that we gradually blend together so that all of our distinctively wonderful differences disappear? I'll think about it, as I finish off this bottle of Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone '03 "Les Deux Albion."

30 June 2005 - Organic/Biodynamic...blah, blah...wait a minute...

2005-06-30T12:41:00.000-07:00

I'm usually not interested winegrowing/making technique. If the wine tastes good, if it makes me happy, that's what counts, and I've been around long enough, tasted enough wine, to know that great wine can be made in lots of different ways. The organic/biodynamic thing though, this interests me. The best, or at least most distinctive organic/biodynamic wines I've tasted remind me of tasting finished wine from the barrel. Ask a winemaker "what is the worst thing you can do to wine," and most will say, "putting it in a bottle." It is almost as if wine is too expansive to be contained in such a small package. The Frick wines remind me of this sensation -- even the "lowly" Sylvaner seems to blossom once it can breathe a little air again, once it gets released from the bottle. It just seems as if the wine is truly alive when it's a result of biodynamic practice.

One big caveat. Organic/biodynamic viticulture is difficult, time-consuming, labor-intensive work. I've had plenty of funky, volatile, downright disastrous wines made in this method. Another Alsace producer, Marc Tempe, is a good example -- one wine is delicious, the next three bizarre-to-terrible. As a matter of fact, organic/biodynamic viticulture is enjoying a pretty strong revival in Alsace. Another producer, Marcel Deiss, makes such clean, impeccable wines you'd never suspect they were biodynamic -- and there it is. Technique running head-on into expression.

Back to Frick for a second. They've been organic since 1970, biodynamic since 1981. You look at Pierre Frick and see a studious, quiet, gentle man who just wants to make wine that speaks of the place from which it comes. Like any other method, biodynamic viticulture can result in great wine. -- and terrible wine. Depends on the people making the critical decisions like "does this taste good?" -- and whether or not we agree with them. And now you know why I avoid writing/talking about technique.

18 May 2005 - The Supreme Court Decision on Shipping

2005-05-18T11:16:00.000-07:00

So the Supreme Court has ruled. States must treat in-state and out-of-state wineries the same regarding shipping laws.

Since I’m in Maryland, we’ll start here – how is the ruling going to affect wine sales here? Immediately, not at all, since Maryland already prohibits shipping, period, whether it’s in-state or out-of-state. In fact, Maryland is one of five states where shipping is a felony. Given the grip large distributors have on the MD legislature and comptroller’s office, as well as the tiny size of Maryland’s wine producing “industry,” the situation is not likely to change soon.

I’m guessing that the short term effect of the ruling on a national level is that some states (Michigan and Illinois come to mind) will actually ban all wine shipments, while some will decide to allow all shipments (see New York). Follow the money. States with substantial wine production are already more liberal about shipping laws because the wineries have some financial/political clout.

Overall the ruling will have little impact on the status quo:
1. Wine is still considered a controlled substance – it is, after all, controlled by ATF (alcohol/tobacco/firearms) instead of UDSA (department of agriculture).
2. Big distributors (bootleggers during prohibition) still make the biggest state legislative lobby and they have comptroller’s offices on their side because tax collection is simplified. In Maryland the connection is even more insidious, since the MD comptroller’s office also acts as the distributors’ bill-collector (ask me about the state’s credit-control regulations sometime).
3. Retailers are scared to death that they’ll lose business to direct shipping. Easier to limit free trade than actually work a little harder to increase wine sales, I guess. Again, Maryland sticks out, this time for its anti-chain license regulations. Somehow it’s ok for chain restaurants to have multiple liquor licenses, but not chain retail supermarkets or liquor stores. So, Maryland is one of the last states where grocery stores do not carry wine or beer. Most wine shoppers are women, and most retail liquor stores in Maryland are less than inviting places to shop. Imagine how much wine consumption would increase in Maryland if women could buy wine and beer in more pleasant surroundings?

What are the long term possibilities? I’m no attorney, but show me how many times the 21st amendment has been successfully challenged in the Supreme Court? In other words, the battle is going to be fought at the state and local level, and who is going to fight that battle? Small wineries, yes, but what about the big guys? Do they have any reason to spend energy on the shipping battle? Considering they have adequate distribution, no. Distributors are adamantly against open shipping, concerned they’ll lose business. Short sighted thinking lacking any vision of a larger, faster growing, more interested wine drinking public, but not surprising. Who’s left? Consumers. I wish them (us) the best of luck.

I’m a retailer, so you might wonder where I stand on the issue. Despite the fact that I pay thousands of dollars for the license and privilege of selling alcoholic beverages, I would like to see all the regulations governing wine sales come crashing down. Do away with any regulations regarding shipping; eliminate the legal protection of the three-tier system – a three tier system -- producer/supplier to distributor to retailer -- is a natural business model that will thrive without the legal crutch; remove wine from ATF control and put it where it belongs, in the USDA; let all licensees sell wine any day, including Sunday.

Americans are soda and beer drinkers. Despite increases in the past 20 years, we’re still 50th or so worldwide in per capita wine consumption, 5th or so in wine production! Eliminating legal barriers would help make more of us wine drinkers, and our laws controlling abuse will help keep us responsible wine drinkers.

19 April 2005 - Know Any Interesting Wine Collectors?

2005-04-19T12:35:00.000-07:00

I just received an email from a "contributing writer" for Wine Spectator asking me if I knew any interesting wine collectors, and if so, if I could please forward their contact information.

It immediately brought to mind the first wine cellar I saw. Back in the day when I was young and would do anything wine-related, I agreed to visit a customer who wanted me to do an appraisal of his wine collection. How depressing. Most of the couple of thousand bottles of wine in this basement were hopelessly over the hill. I mean, fifteen-year old Beaujolais Nouveau; a couple of the worst vintages of Bordeaux -- yes, there used to be such a thing as bad vintages -- I'm talking cases of 1963 and 1965 and it was 1982 at the time. Dry white wine that had gone brown, like 20 year old "Liebfraumilch."

This guy might as well have been hoarding a giant load of shit. I was pretty blunt even back then. I suggested he back up a dumpster and throw out most of his "collection." Amazingly, he wasn't angry. In fact, he continued to do business with the store I was working in at the time, and I would occasionally deliver wine to his house. As far as I can tell, he never did back up a dumpster -- he just kept throwing more wine down there, nice fresh stuff on top of all that mud under glass. As far as I could tell, he rarely drank wine. The guy still calls every once in a while, and it never fails to depress me. Give me the wine drinkers anytime.

I'm guessing this wasn't the sort of story the contributing writer was hoping for.

31 March 2005 - Lombardia, Oltrepo Pavese, Bonarda...

2005-03-31T13:09:00.000-08:00

This was going to be a blog about Bonarda and all the confusions surrounding that one name. That blog disappeared into webspace somewhere, and the wine that sparked the subject turned out to be made mostly from Pinot Noir...forget it. I'll start over, and hopefully this entry won't vanish!

Lombardia, whose political and financial capital is Milan, is Italy’s largest, wealthiest region. However, as a wine producer it ranks only 11th in Italy, and up until about twenty years ago, its vinous reputation was pretty lousy. It is only recently that Lombardia’s wealth has been unleashed on local wine production. One of the results is Franciacorta, Italy’s answer to Champagne. And even more recently, the investments are paying off in the Oltrepo Pavese.

Oltrepo Pavese (“the other side of the Po River from Pavia”) is a little triangle of land tucked between Piemonte and Veneto. It produces more DOC wine than Soave, and that’s saying something. Almost all of it is sweet, fizzy light red wine sold mostly in supermarkets in Milan. But a few visionaries have taken beautiful hillside vineyards and transformed them into top flight wine estates.

The indigenous grapes of Oltrepo Pavese include Barbera, Uva Rara (“the rare grape”), Vespolina and a grape they call Bonarda, but which is actually Croatina. Before phylloxera wiped out Italy’s vineyards in the late 19th century, Bonarda Piemontese accounted for 30% of Piemonte’s vineyards, but only tiny parcels still exist. A grape called Bonarda is also one of Argentina’s two most widely planted grape varieties (the other is Malbec), but it is also not likely to be the Bonarda Piemontese. Argentina’s Bonarda might also be Croatina, but a lot of ampelographers think it might be Charbono. As in California Charbono, which is likely also know as Corbeau, or Charbonneau, an extinct French grape which is identical to a Savoie grape called Douce Noire, which Galet insisted was the Italian Dolcetto. Based on Argentine “Bonarda” that I’ve tasted to date, and comparing that to Oltrepo Pavese “Bonarda” (Croatina) I’ve tasted doesn’t do much to clear up the confusion for me. I would be more upset if the wines weren’t usually so much fun to drink. Whatever the grape actually is, the wines are worth getting to know.

The wine that sparked this confusion is Riccardo Albani’s “Costa del Morone” ’01, Oltrepo Pavese. When I first tasted it, I was told the wine was a blend of Bonarda (Croatina) and Pinot Noir. However, a little web research in preparation for making this a “wine of the week” uncovered more confusion. Albani’s ’99 Costa del Morone was primarily Barbera, with some Croatina and Uva Rara. Reading through Albani’s website, I discovered that Costa del Morone was a blend that changed depending on what the vintage brought to the raw materials. The ’01, best as I can find out so far, is 75 % Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir), the remainder Vespolina, Croatina and Uva Rara. Again, whatever it’s made from, it sure is delicious. After trying to make sense of this blog, I’m ready for a bottle. Now.

2 April 2005 - Hold the presses! Oh yeah, this stuff already went to press. Well, it's Saturday, and I received a call from Albani's importer this morning, who was falling all over himself with apologies -- the wine I mention above, Albani's Costa del Morone '01, is in fact mosty Barbera, with a little Croatina and Uva Rara. Zero Pinot Nero. I could make excuses, like Barbera and Pinot Noir are easy to confuse, but what the hell, the wine's still delicious, and confusion is a perpetual state. Drink on.

29 March 2005 - Bonarda = Confusion

2005-03-29T13:04:00.000-08:00

The confusion about Bonarda started a year ago and just when I thought I got it, I just got more confused. The story involves at least five different grape varieties -- all of which might be called Bonarda -- and at least four countries.

Where to start? At the beginning. Before phylloxera wiped out most of Europe's vineyards in the late 19th century, 30% of the vineyard land in Italy's Piedmont was planted to Bonarda Piemontese. Today it is virtually nonexistent. But what about all that Bonarda planted in Oltrepo Pavese, just across the southeastern border of Piemonte in Lombardia? Turns out that grape isn't Bonarda at all, but is actually a variety called Croatina.

And what about the Bonarda which is one of the two (Malbec being the other) most widely planted grapes in Argentina? Various experts, including Jancis Robinson, are sure it's not Bonarda. Some say it is in fact Croatina; according to Robinson however, most ampelographers think Argentina's Bonarda is the same grape as California's Charbono. Charbono is believed to be the French Savoie's Corbeau, aka Charbonneau, which is also known as Douce Noire. Douce Noir is, according to Galet (via Jancis Robinson again), identical to Dolcetto. Whoa, back to the Piemonte, by way of Argentina, the USA and France!

So, let's see, we've got:
Bonarda Piemontese -- virtually extinct, but still grown in the Piemonte.
Croatina -- thriving in Oltrepo Pavese, where it is called Bonarda, and perhaps, in Argentina.
Charbono -- aka Corbeau, Charbonneau, Douce Noire, tiny quantities in California, virtually extinct in France.
Dolcetto -- thriving in the Piemonte.
Bonarda -- What makes this exercise worth the effort is the wine. Whatever its actual identity, its true origin, I've tasted a few remarkable wines that claim Bonarda as the grape. Look for Martilde or Riccardo Albani from the Oltrepo Pavese, Tikal or Susanna Balbo in Argentina. These Argentine examples remind me more of Bonarda as Croatina than Bonarda as Charbono. Still confused? Have a glass of wine, relax, enjoy the ride wherever it may take you.

21 March 2005 - A Great Riesling

2005-03-21T19:37:00.000-08:00

Today I tasted six wines from Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau. Five from the 2003 vintage, and a barrel sample from 2004. The few '03 Rieslings I'd tasted before didn't prepare me for this -- I was expecting soft, juicy, sweet wines; delicious and easy and not worth spending lots of cash to obtain.

The most basic wine of the day, the Estate Riesling Qba Trocken '03, was dry, with mineral/white peach smells and flavors, and as good a QbA as you could imagine from any great estate in any great vintage. As good as the other four wines were, I want to get to the point:

Part of the estate's home vineyard, Kiedricher Grafenberg, is designated "Erstes Gewachs" (a "first growth"). "First growth" is a designation achieved through adherence to all kinds of criteria in the vineyard and the cellar, as well as tasting evaluation by peers. Their '03 Riesling "Erstes Gewachs" is picked at Auslese level of ripeness and vinified dry, leaving about 13% alcohol. It has a phenomenal concentration of mineral/fresh apricot/blossom smells and flavors balanced by great acidity. I've never tasted a dry wine that has such incredible intensity of flavor -- almost painful -- with such exquisite balance. I was, and remain, astounded. I didn't need to be convinced about the greatness of Riesling, but this wine has blown the lid off what I thought was possible to attain with the grape.

16 March 2005 - Corks Again...

2005-03-16T19:32:00.000-08:00

The talk about corks, and their replacements, is intensifying. I've stated the case for screw caps here before, but I've read more, and perhaps more important, I've started asking wine makers themselves. Big wineries can change bottling lines, and bottles, faster than their smaller counterparts because they can more easily absorb the tens (or hundreds) of thousands of dollars it requires. The little guys with little pocket books want to be sure that when they make such an expensive change it will be the right change for the long term. Since other types of closures are being tested now that it is generally accepted that natural cork is not the best bet, they want to be sure another type of closure doesn't pop up that blows screw caps off the table as the best alternative. Even the natural cork manufacturers are diversifying, opening screw cap divisions, alternative material divisions. Change is in the air, but the small wineries want to be sure they make a change that will last.

Through all the controversy, I still think about this: Cork taint is not a new phenomenon. While the actual scientific causes might be recently discovered, the cork itself has been recognized as a culprit for decades. Even now that new research has revealed that wood and paper products can also produce the dreaded TCA, that didn't let cork off the hook, it just added to the list of culprits. What were the cork manufacturers doing all that time? Were they always working on ways to make cork TCA-free? Or is their reaction to the problem too little, too late?

As I was discussing this issue with a young winemaker from Oregon this week, and he was criticizing screw caps and talking about other alternatives and clearly worrying about how to pay for potential bottling line changes, two of the first three bottles he opened were corked. I might have been glad that the problem was so vividly illustrated at so propitious a time, I couldn't help feeling sympathy for his situation. We did agree that regardless of what we end up closing our bottles of wine with ten years from now, it'll be better for this current storm of controversy.

9 February 2005 - Italian Whites, What's New, What's Good?

2005-02-09T19:37:00.000-08:00

Where are the good Italian white wines? I'm not talking about clean and correct -- that's easy now, though it wasn't 20 years ago -- I'm talking compelling, interesting. Are they in the traditional places -- San Gimignano (the first DOC, in 1966), Soave (before Pinot Grigio the best selling Italian white in the USA), Orvieto? Mostly, no. Vernaccia di San Gimignano gets my vote as most-overrated wine in Italy. Soave and Orvieto have a couple of great producers (Gini, Tamellini, Pieropan in Soave; Palazzone and Barberani in Orvieto) and a boat load of ordinary producers who make wine as insipid as the forementioned Vernaccia. Most Pinot Grigio suffers from fatal insipidity (is that a word?) as well, with a handful of exceptions (Felluga being my current favorite). So, besides the few exceptions in the well-known areas, what about the rest of Italy? Here's a short run-down...

Vermentino -- a grape grown almost exclusively along the Mediterranean coast in Italy (espicially Sardinia, Liguria and Tuscany) and France where it is known as Rolle. Look for Santadi in Sardinia, Terenzuola and Gualdo del Rey in Tuscany.

Greco di Tufo -- the main white grape of Campania. My favorite the last couple of vintages is Ferrara.

Jermann -- This is not a grape variety, but a producer, in Friuli, who makes one of the greatest white blends in the world, Vintage Tunina. It has a little bit of everything -- Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, Picolit; and there's nothing quite like it. Vintage Tunina has been around since the 1970s, so it might suffer from over-familiarity or complacency, but it's still thrilling white wine, and the best of an amazing array from this great winery.

Franciacorta (especially Bellavista) -- Italy's best dry bubblies come from Franciacorta, in Lombardy -- it's the only place in the world of sparkling wine that rivals Champagne in style and quality. One of the greatest, most overlooked wine-producing regions in the world.

Prosecco -- A grape, unique to the Veneto, that is responsible for the most distinctive, delicious, lovable sparkling wine not made in the Champagne method or style. Hands down favorite is Nino Franco's Primo Franco, creamy, frothy, barely sweet, irresistably delicious.

There is more. In Italy, there is always more.

1 February 2005: What about "corked" wineries?

2005-02-01T10:03:00.000-08:00

Can a winery be "corked?"

TCA (trichloroanasol), the compound that causes "cork taint," or "corked" wine, is found in other places...wineries -- especially wineries with older wooden equipment. You see, TCA is created by an interaction between bacteria and a phenolic compound called trichlorophenol. Trichlorophenol is found in wood (and cork) that is cleaned and sterilized with chlorine. That interaction produces TCA. Evidently, older wooden structures in wineries that have been repeatedly disinfected with chlorine-based solutions are prone to be infected with the same bacteria that causes cork taint. The result is that the winery itself can be "corked" -- and TCA can get into the wine before it is even bottled!

About ten years ago Beaulieu Vineyards in Napa Valley was one of the notable wineries that had to confront this problem when large batches of their wines were found to be "corked." The winery, full of old wooden structures like barrel-stacking frames was checked for TCA and found to have significant levels in the winery's atmosphere. Removal of the suspect structures and implements solved the problem. Wineries, especially older ones with lots of wooden equipment, are, or at least should be, constantly monitoring for the existence of TCA -- many have, or are in the process of, removing all wooden structures and equipment, replacing them with different materials. By the way, oak barrels aren't cleaned with chlorine, so they're safe -- for now...

The good news is, unlike phylloxera or Pierce's disease, getting rid of TCA is possible, and the next generation of wine drinkers won't have to worry about it.

1 Febuary 2005: Screw Caps -- Simple!

2005-02-01T07:36:00.000-08:00

Screw caps are going to replace cork, natural or synthetic, as the closure of choice for wine bottles. Simple. Imagine another food or beverage closure that causes 3-10% of the product to be spoiled -- it simply would be unacceptable. But that is the current situation with wine. Natural cork is sometimes tainted with a chemical coumpound called trichloroanasol (or TCA), which ruins the wine in the bottle that cork is sealing. Wineries have been researching the problem for about thirty years. Their conclusion: screw caps are the best closure for wine, both in the short and long run. So, what are the objections?

1. Screw caps aren't as romantic as corks.
Perhaps, but nothing is less romantic than opening, then tasting a "corked" wine. At the least, it doesn't have much smell or flavor at all, but no worry, the taint gets worse with aeration, so the second glass tastes worse than the first -- most people don't make it to a third glass. At the worst, it smells and tastes bad right out of the gate. And so many of us are so intimidated by restaurateurs and retailers that we won't reject or return the bad bottle -- so we're out the money for the wine as well as the romantic evening we were hoping would be enhanced by a nice bottle of wine.

2. Only cheap wine has screw caps.
This used to be true. Not anymore. In fact, some wineries are bottling their best wines with screw caps, leaving their "lesser" wines with corks until they can complete the conversion process from cork to cap.

3. What about long term aging?
Wineries were concerned about whether or not their wines would age properly or at all if closed with screw caps, however, studies have proven otherwise. In fact, wine seems to age at a slower rate when closed with screw caps, but age nonetheless. And with no funky smells or flavors to get in the way.

4. What about synthetic cork?
O.K. perhaps in the short term, but they seem to impart off odors and flavors over the long term. Besides, if screw caps are the best choice, why would you bother to use a closure that imitates natural cork? To save the corkscrew industry? To perpetuate the silly ritual in restaurants when we order wine?

5. What about wine service in restaurants?
What about it? Who needs it? If service staff doesn't have to worry about the bottle-opening ritual anymore, perhaps they'll have more time to actually learn about the wines they sell.

Any other objections you can think of? Let me know...

14 January 2005 - Another "new" grape variety...

2005-01-14T13:38:00.000-08:00

Fer, or Fer-Servadou. Grown in southwest France, Fer has been used in blend with other grapes, especially Tannat, in relatively known places like Madiran and Gaillac. I just tasted a 100% Fer from the village of Marcillac (Laurens, 2002), situated roughly between Madiran and Cahors. As of 1979, according to Jancis Robinson in Vines, Grapes and Wines (Mitchell Beazley, 1986), Fer plantings were down to about 750 hectares. Based on this one wine, I'm glad it hasn't disappeared. Very dark sort of purple/garnet color, intensely meaty/herbal smells, yet surprisngly gentle, if intense, flavors. The taste was expected, the texture, shocking -- so soft and silky!

The salesman knew I would buy this -- I can't resist something new and unusual. It's a big reason why I still love this business. After 26-27 years, still learning something new every day!

10 January 2005 - wine of the day

2005-01-10T20:24:00.000-08:00

Hentley Farm Shiraz 2002, Barossa Valley, Australia. Murky black/purple color; meaty/peppery/crushed black berries/herb smells (and perhaps a whiff of bretanomyces) and flavors -- some grip and a slightly funky edge, and a load of character. Dazzling wine, and the slight funk blew off in a few minutes.

That makes three unusually good Aussie Shiraz in the last couple of weeks -- a good sign after what seemed like months of ordinary stuff. If not for the Hently Farm, the Leasingham 2002 Bin 61 (Clare Valley) would have been the wine of the day, and considering it'll sell for about $8 less abottle, it still rates high. The other top notch Shiraz recently tasted was Chateau Reynella 2002 (McLaren Vale).

2 December 2004

2004-12-03T07:55:00.000-08:00

The wine surprise of the week was Deep Creek Cellars "White Linen Reserve" '02 -- mostly old-vine Seyval from a vineyard just over the border in West Virginia from Deep Creek's vineyards in extreme northwestern Maryland. Paul Roberts is proprietor-winemaker, and he's willing to push it to the limit to make the best wine he can...if he were located in a better wine-producing region, he'd probably be a star. As it is, I've never tasted a Seyval anywhere near as interesting -- deep color, peach/apricot smells and flavors, and spritzy acidity which calms down with air, but still gives this a zip that balances the intensity of the fruit -- reminds me of really good Greco di Tufo.

First attempt at blogging

2004-06-22T14:34:00.000-07:00

This reminds me of the first time I tried to set up a website, in 1997. It was much more difficult then. This first posting is just a warm-up, to see if blogging might be an effective way to record my thoughts about wine. We'll see...